when is the best time to have a bitch puppy speyed
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My puppy is 12 weeks. He sleeps in a pen at night but destroys his pee pads. His pee has stuck to the laminate floors and it smells so bad. What are some ideas with potty training and pee pads? He’s a 12 week German shepherd.
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Samantha Sadler When we crate our puppy we actually don’t put pee pads in there — take him out at night and in the morning and do it consistently and it teaches them when to go to the bathroom
We were told not to put pee pads in the crate as they should not be encouraged to go to the bathroom in their den. It takes a little while to get used to but we found getting rid of pee pads altogether was the best thing ever. We had our months of accidents but now our guy never goes to the bathroom inside.
I found pee pads increased his incontinence
Give him some space and toys and stuff and reinforce him for going in the den and just making sure he doesn’t have water before bed and is taken outside
Also make sure his kennel doesn’t smell like urine or feces — he may not realize he isn’t suppose to go to the bathroom in there and he may be playing or destroying the pee pads because he is teething — there are awesome rubber toys you can get and we just popped out the squeek mechanism in them so ours could chew on them all night and also make sure he gets a long walk and lots of exercise before he goes in so he isn’t full of energy!!
if he’s urinating constantly could be a UTI so many get checked for that!
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Anonymous i pretty much agree with everything Piper has said, but I’d like to add a few things.
when you’re home, take him out every half hour. set him up for success, and don’t let him urinate or defacate anywhere in the house. this sets a rule – it tells him outside is where he’s to do his business. every time he DOES use the yard, throw a party. make it rain treats. make him think he just did the best thing ever. throw out the pee pads, all they do is teach him it’s okay to pee in the house, plus they act as a possible obstruction if he ever decides to eat the plastic.
i want to reinforce: make sure he’s EMPTY before you come inside for the night. this is really crucial to his training and the comfort of your sense of smell. 😉 and for now it may be best to get up in the middle of the night to take him out, just until he gets the hang of sleeping through the night. we had to do that with our previous puppy until his death – he couldn’t hold it due to a birth defect, and it made everyone happier if no one had to clean up a lake of urine every morning.
do you crate him? this might be more effective than pee pads in a pen – get a crate appropriate for his adult size, but make sure it has a divider, and set the divider so he has just enough room to turn around and lie down. make sure it doesn’t start out smelling like urine, too.
to clean up your house and any of his stuff, use an enzyme cleaner. Nature’s Miracle can help – we found some success with it – and it’s available at Petsmart/Petco.
if he’s eliminating during the day, can someone come home around lunchtime? if you can’t come home, can you hire a dog walker to let him out, or maybe a trusted neighbor? that really would help a great deal.
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PK Dennis Yep, you are training your sweet puppy to pee and poop in your house when you use pee pads. Follow the directions below to house train your pup, and sleep in sweats or something like that so you can pop up in the middle of the night and take that puppy outside if he starts indicating he needs to pee (he should be sleeping in a crate that is small enough that he does not want to pee in it). I sleep in sweats with slip on shoes beside the door for all my dogs until they are 6 months old.
I have a 11 year old Scottie that was taught to pee on pads in the bathroom when he was a puppy, (before I got him at 6 months old) and to this day when it is cold or rainy at night he will go into the bathroom and use the bath mat instead of going out the doggie door which is 4 feet away. If you teach them to use a pee pad you will struggle with the results the rest of his life.
Fight the good fight!
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PK Dennis Basics of potty training: 1. you need a crate – you can get a large crate that will hold his adult size but has a divider so you can make it small for him now. He should only be able to sit up and lay out flat in his crate, no more room than that. Or get a small crate now, and a larger crate as he grows (keep the small crate for the next puppy, or sell it on Craigs List).
2. When you are not watching him he is in the crate.
3. When he comes out of the crate he goes outside — does not pass go, does not pick up a ball…right outside until he pees and maybe poops (depending on time of day). When he does his business it make it rain treats, jump or joy, and laugh! Then play with him outside for a few mins so he connects being outdoors and peeing outdoors with fun and games.
4. He is allowed back into the house and the freedom to explore as long as you can watch him to make sure he doesn’t have an accident. You might want to tie him to you (leash) while you move through the house, just so you know what he is doing and he can’t disappear and have an accident while you are cooking or such.
Remember: He goes back outside after a meal (eating = bowel movement about 15 to 20 after a meal)
He goes back outside after active playing (exercise and excitement = pee and/or a bowel movement).
He goes outside right before getting into his crate for the night, and don’t give him water after he pees so he can make it through the night.
During the times he is out of the crate, take him outside every hour or so and give him a command to pee (do your business, get busy, …)
Sleep in something that you are not embarrassed to wear outside in the middle of the night so you can jump up and take him outside if he whines or stirs around in his crate in the middle of the night.
My puppy is a male husky/chow mix who is 5 months old.
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Anonymous we feed green beans as treats quite frequently. dogs don’t really need additional vegetables, though, and whole earth is a good food. what makes you want to supplement?
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PK Dennis I use fruit for treats (no raisins!), and if I am chopping vegetables for myself I offer pieces as treats while we are in the kitchen. Other than that, I don’t routinely add fruits and vegetables to the raw diet I feed my boys. They are allowed to graze my yard and they eat dandelions (greens & flowers), some flowers (quince most often when it is in bloom), and most anything they can get in the vegetable garden including tomatoes, squash, raspberries, and blueberries.
I do add raw meat & raw bones to my foster’s diet — they get a grain-free kibble with raw meat and raw bones added to help keep teeth clean (raw bones) and add top quality protein. For example, they get their kibble and a duck wing, or an organically raised chicken wing (no hormones) or ribs/frames. Some times I add some canned Jack Mackerel to the kibble for Omegas, or a poached egg – about once per week.
As your pup gets older you can use things with larger bones (hormone free chicken legs, backs, etc.) but I would wait until he is over a year old before I start feeding these larger bones.
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Erika Troncoso I researched dog foods that were available in the area I live that would be both good for my dog but without costing an arm and a leg. I came across whole earth brand when the vet I took my puppy to for his first visit recommended it. Of course as a new puppy mom I researched it like crazy before buying it for my baby http://www.dogfoodadvisor.com/dog-food-reviews/whole-earth-farms-grain-free/ this is an independent website that breaks down each and every ingredient in the dog food and gives the benefits of the good stuff and the bad stuff that is hidden in the ingredient list. I am not concerned with the type of food I am feeding him, but in my research I have seen multiple articles stating the benefits of dogs have added nutrients to their diet that they cannot get from dog food alone. We alone cannot get everything we need from eating the same meal over and over again so naturally this made sense when talking in regards to the health of my puppy. I simply wanted to know from other pet parents which fruits and vegetables they have seen that have been good to add to their dogs diet.
Put flea tick prevention on cat. Had to wash off because he was irritated with it. His back is twitching. Anything else we can do?
My male 8 yr inside cat was running jumping playing, suddenly he appeared wobbly, pupils huge, and howled. 30 minutes later he appears normal. This episode lasted 3minutes. What do you think happened? Thanks
Our 8 week old puppy had a diet change this morning from dry food to wet food for the first time. She has full energy and there has been no change in mood but she has been urinating more than usual, is this normal?
Christina Chambreau, what do you consider safest while effective tick preventive?
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Christina Chambreau The safest may take more patience while discovering what works best for each dog/person/location.
http://www.ShooTags.com make tags for people, dogs and cats that work in milder situations.
Noni – http://www.real-noni.com – orally as a treat. Several veterinarians started taking it and giving it to their dogs and cats after an herbal conference in Kauai (where it is
raised) and reported dramatic reductions in ticks.
Many essential oil sprays – VEtriScience has VetriRepel that you can get through my website, http://www.Myhealthyanimals.com; http://www.cedarcide is good to spray the perimiter
of your property and use topically; wondercide.com (similar); and others; Neem & lemon grass are best per Dr. Winston;
Other internal products: by Earth Animal;
dog wise has a great tick puller. Mostly I do not mind if there are one or two ticks to pull.
finally, if a pet is healthy, they will be MUCH less likely to acquire an active tick borne disease, so that is still the main goal.
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PK Dennis I haven’t tried the Shoo Tags yet, but I have found nothing really work for ticks — that is also not harmful to dogs and cats in the long run. I take the management approach:
After every walk where the dogs get into tall grass or shrubs, or into piles of leaves, each dog gets a quick comb with a very fine comb (similar to a flea comb — I use a Greyhound brand extra find tooth comb with 1 inch long teeth) that captures even the smallest tick. Some days I will comb as many as 20 ticks from my terrier that needs to put his head into every hole he finds.
Then that night or the next morning while we are relaxing on the sofa or in bed, I slowly work my finger tips thru their fur all around their head, ears, collar and chest (where most ticks attach), feeling for the tick or two that got missed by the comb. I keep an air-tight jar on the coffee table and one on my night stand to drop the ticks I find into so I am not jumping up to flush the little buggers, then I empty the jar every few days into the toilet and flush.
The last thing I do, just to be sure — is have my dogs tested for Lyme and the other tick diseases each time they go to the vet (once or twice a year usually). Three of my 4 dogs have popped positive for a tick delivered disease in the last 3 years (different diseases, different times of the year) — dispite having all my dogs on Revolution year round (to prevent heartworm and mange since we have mange in the foxes on the property). Revolution doesn’t seem to kill the ticks in my experience, and it so it cannot prevent them from giving Lyme and the other diseases to my boys.
I am going to give Christina’s recommendation of Shoo Tags a try.
I have approx 30 500mg tetracycline for people on hand. Plan 2 take a 1st am urine sample trying to find a way 2 come up with a slide+cover, mineral oil &new methylene blue have access 2 good microscope & a former vet asst friend & I’m willing to go without food 4 me to care for my Billy help plz
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Anonymous your dog needs to be seen by a vet. urinating blood can mean a few things, none of which are good if left untreated.
i understand if you’re tight on money. there are veterinary assistance programs out there to help those in need: http://www.humanesociety.org/animals/resources/tips/trouble_affording_pet.html?credit=web_id91754962
Is allethrin in diffused air-application toxic to dogs? (such as in this type of device http://www.thermacell.com/mosquito-repellent )
My 5 year old beagle seems to have the symptoms of lazy tail syndrome. She is eating, drinking and using the bathroom properly but is not wagging her tail and holding it up. Whay can I do for her until payday
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Angie Pearce I think my Brook got hers after her bath. We went for a walk and she rolled around on the grass like she normally does after her bath. But I was wondering…what if her tail wasn’t fully dry and the cold from the ground together… could that cause her problem. Everything was fine shortly after that but then she went to sleep for a while and when she got up that’s when I noticed her licking at her tail. I tried to touch it but she yelped. I went
on line and got some information. I just want
to be sure.
depends on the breed and whether you’re able to keep her away from dogs.
larger breeds mature later, and it’s suggested to wait until AT LEAST their first heat to ensure their bodies develop fully…if not until they are fully grown. for example, if i were not actively showing my doberman, i would be spaying her around her second birthday in July.
she is 8 months old and is having her first heat. She is as cross between a bichon frisse and a maltese terrier.
Our guidelines in Col. Potter Cairn Rescue is for females to be spayed at 6 months, same for males to be neutered. In the past 20 years of owning dogs I have gone from fixing them at 1 year old to this 6 month age recommendation and I see big differences in how my dogs respond. And I am liking the results of altering them at 6 months.