Hello,
I would either do what your plan is, if it’s not too late and if I have the stamina to have the night be longer than I planned OR. I would take He new dog for a long long walk after a dinner meal (always feed after transport). And then put him in a cage at the farthest corner of the house so he can sleep (and everyone else can too). In the morning I would do the intros. I just think that this pup will be stressed already and there’s no sense stressing yours after bedtime. Your new pup will prob be tired anyway. If not a long walk with justvthe two of you should help remedy this.
Hello pawbly friends!! We have just rescued another GSD- he is beautiful. We have only had him about 48 hours. He is still very anxious from his trip and new surroundings, but our two GSDs are showing him the ropes and being very patient with him. He is only 9 months old, so he really is still somewhat of a baby. He has taken to the house very well, and is learning the rules already. The stairs however, are a really frightening thing for him. Absolutely REFUSES to go down. He’s gone up them. Riva (one of our dogs) has gone up and down many times in front of him. We swear she knows we are trying to teach him??We have tied all of us being down there with a squeaky toy, treats, praise…. just looking for some advice. My guess is once he is comfortable enough and feels secure it will not be an issue, but we have a lot of stairs, so it is a little difficult trying to maneuver things right now. Any advice would be great! THanks!???
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Hello pawbly friends! We are very excited to be gaining a new rescue GSD to our home. In the past, whenever the first introduction has occurred, it has been during the day and we have been able to have a nice long walk including all the dogs involved and then after they’re good and acquainted and tired, we go int the house. This rescue is a little different as the pick up time is late Sunday night. My two dogs will be “in bed”. My thinking is to bring them outside one at a time to greet the new addition, and then take a short nighttime walk and then all go in together. Please share any wisdom to help make the transition as smooth as possible? Thanks!!!??
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I have an 8 week old Beagle/Labrador mix puppy (Sonny). He is currently on ID because he had diarrhea when I brought him home last weekend. He is “solid” and ready for regular puppy food to be introduced, and I’m at a loss on what to choose. So confused about grain-free debate and ensuring no by products. Please can you give some guidance? Favorites?
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6-month old Golden Retriever/Labrador mix bites me most of the time. She’s usually nice when it’s playtime or feeding time (if she’s overstimulated accidents may or may not happen). But in downtimes she just comes at me. I could be sitting quietly not bothering her and she could be lying down 1 second and the next she’s suddenly biting my arm. It doesn’t often happen to other family members. Is it because she wasn’t taught bite inhibition properly because family members don’t want to leave the room or do it nicely? Is it because they react aggressively when she bites them (i.e. they used to pinch her and step on her paw. now it’s mostly just pinning her down to the floor)?
I’m honestly tired. They think they’re doing it right, but I don’t think it’s working. But since she’s not biting them as much they think of it as working.
I’m literally the only one playing and exercising her and I think that factors in a lot. They just leave her and aside from feeding her in the morning, they really don’t do anything else.
I got a response from another site a few months back and they said I had a people problem, not a puppy problem. Is there anything I can do though? Is it something that’s wrong with me?? I don’t know anymore please help :(((((((((((
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Natisha Mullis-Brooks You do have a “people problem”, but that “people problem” has now caused a dog problem. It sounds like the pup is bored and wanting to play, but hasn’t been taught the social niceties of the “human world”. Retrievers are very mouthy in general because that’s what they’re bred for; picking up and carrying things. But there are actually several things you can do to help.
First things first: If she comes at you and bites down on your arm, yell out, “Ow!”, in a loud and high pitched voice. As hard as it might be to do, try not to pull your arm back as this may trigger the tugging instinct. Even at six months old, she can be taught bite inhibition. It’s not too late!! Yelling out in a high pitched, loud voice may startle her into letting go. After all, her goal is not to hurt you, but to play and get some attention. Think of puppies when they play. When one yells in pain, the other usually lets go. That’s our goal here. If she does let go, offer her a toy that the two of you can interact with: a rope for tug, a squeaker for catching, a ball for chasing. Make sure, when you are with her, you have a toy that she likes with you at all times. Because once she lets go, you want to say, “Good girl!” and give her the toy immediately and then a bit of affection for doing the right thing. Most retrievers have high drives and love a game of fetch.
If the yelling doesn’t work, you can yell “Aaaanntt” and push your arm firmly into her mouth. This losens her grib by widening her jaws and most dogs don’t like how it feels. As soon as she releases you, say “Good girl” and offer the toy and your time.
If neither of the above works, you may have to try a bit of nose pressure. When she bites down yell “Ow!” and then place your hand (thumb on one side and index finger on the other) over her nose so that the meaty part between your thumb and finger are applying pressure to the top of her nose. You want to place it about a quarter of the way down her nose. Then squeeze your index finger and thumb together as if you’re trying to make them touch through her nose. You’ll have to supply a decent amount of pressure for this to work, but you don’t r ally want to harm her. The top of a dog’s nose is VERY sensitive and a. Other dog will bite a pup here with some force, when the pup has gotten out of hand. You want to mimick a mother’s technique, sans the teeth. Once she releases you,give her the toy and affection. She may yell when you do this, but I promise you are only causing a bit of discomfort and no large amount of pain.
Lastly, if all else fails you’ll have to become a bit more aggressive in your tactics. -sigh- Ehen she bites you, place your thumb behind her upper canine by the same means as applying pressure to the top of the nose, but apply no pressure. Instead, run your thumb down to her upper lip and push it into her mouth a bit. This will cause her to bite down on her own lip (we all nonhow horrible this feels!) and in most cases, she’ll let go of you almost immediately. Give you, “Good girl” and affection immediately. And bonus, she’ll get to experience her own bite strength, which promotes bite inhibition.
I wish you two a lot of luck. If you have any questions about technique, I’d be happy to send you videos. I’m a Canine Behaviorist and have worked with dogs for over 30 years. Just email me at: tishtish1975@yahoo.com
My bunny has been recently just sitting there with one eye a little bit squinted. I’ve never seen this before. Her eyes are the same size. What is going on?
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Hello, I have a 7 mo old bloodhound, Dewey and a 5 yr old beagle/husky mix. Dewey my bloodhound has discovered my garden. He is always eating vegetables like greenbeans and vegetable foliage like cauliflower leaves, broccoli leaves and brussel sprout leaves. Sometimes it’s the plant itself. My question is can this hurt him? Can he eat too much and get sick? Also, I do not use any pesticides in my garden.
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Hello pawbly friends- we have found 3 dead crows on our property in the last 10 or so days. I am wondering if I should call “someone” ( who would that even be) or if it is not uncommon. I’ve never found this many in such a short time period before. I should mention we live by many farms, who may or may not have sprayed some sort of pesticides.
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My cat ran away for 7 weeks we found her extremely malnourished and dehydrated displaying neurological issues. We rushed her to the vet but we couldn’t afford the hospitalisation so we took jer home with prescriptions and subcutaneous fluid replacement therapy. Jer liver enzymes were elevated they said it should get better as she eat very slowly in small quantities. Its been 5 days since we found her. The neuro issues have disappeared. She has been peeing regularly in increasing quantities and though week she can walk around. She is alerte. But she refuses any food in any form. I have tried wet dry kitten formula replacement. She eat a bite or two the first days and nothing since. What should i do?
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Anonymous I would call the vet back, to be quite honest. 5 days with almost no food is a critical issue.
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Joe Johnson I suggest you check into how easy assisted feeding with oral syringes is once you and your cat get the hang of it. You’d have to go real slow at first – maybe 1ml per quirt and only 5ml every 1/2 hour or so, but it’s pretty darn simple once you get the hang of it. Almost any canned pet food can be turned into a slurry/shake with water and a blender or even with just a spoon and a lot of patience, if it’s pate style. I’d suggest going with food you know your cat loves, so that it’s easier for them to get comfortable with the concept. You must go VERY slow to begin with or you run the very serious risk of getting liquid into their lungs, which can be deadly. There are decent videos on You tube going over all of this in detail and I assume your vet would be more than happy to show you first hand how it’s done.
First and foremost though, please go see the vet.
Hello,
Congratulations on the new baby! Stairs can take a while for some dogs. I think it is a matter of time to find heir comfort zone but yes going down is always much scarier than up. One of the things I do is have my husband walk directly in front of them so hey can’t see the whole scope of the stairs. Or find a place with deep shallow long stairs like at the park and practice on them. I also have picked up my dog and placed them on Yw bottom two stairs and practiced them. So they only have to go a few feet. Maybe go up and down the bottom stairs until this is comfortable. Then go to the bottom four stairs. Etc. Etc. Eventually they just sort of try and eventually they get comfortable. It just takes time. And patience.
Try stairs outside first. Some dogs cannot deal with enclosed staircases in houses, but they’re fine with stairs in parks and the like.