Hi there- ages ago we had a male cat who was blocked. They had a very hard time catheterizing him, but eventually were able to. I recall there being a specific medication (I think it was some sort of muscle relaxer) that helped them, but I cannot remember the details. And I believe they also used a needle to relieve some of the bladder pressure which they thought would help. But I know that was tricky because they didn’t want to cause any damage (obviously). Have you spoken to them about options for getting this resolved? I’m sure you have – perhaps another vet at the clinic has suggestions? I hope things work out????????
Hi there???? First off, thanks for caring so much about this dog. Secondly, a private trainer or personal session with a trainer is quite expensive- BUT- a group session is much more affordable. I would call around to local petsmart or other pet stores/people to try to find one. You can get somewhere between 8 and 10 sessions for around $200. You will get a wealth of knowledge there, so long as the trainer is good. Third, as tricky and difficult as it can be at times, try to remain calm. I know easier said than done in the heat of the moment, but your dog will feed off of that anxiety or stress. I know you said pulling on the leash is an issue- a trainer can definitely help with that. And once that is improving, walks will be much more beneficial. A tired dog is a well behaved dog. ???? I find that a prong collar does not help with pulling, to be honest. We have GSDs and we’re advised years ago when we first started rescuing them to use a chain collar, high on the neck where it should be just behind the ears if pulled. This has the desired effect with minimal tug and is easier for the person to maneuver. Another trick with walking…. every time the dog pulls, change direction. This makes for very silly looking (and time consuming) walks in the beginning, but does help get them to follow your lead. You have a very energetic dog, so getting your walks down is a must. Plus, walking helps establish order in your pack and lets them know you are above them. You also may need to “dog proof” your house with some baby gates for the time being until your dog learns where it can and cannot go (i.e. to eat the litter box). Continue reinforcing good behaviors with a reward- it’s great that you do that!! Correct misbehavior with a firm no and then change he situation. Guarding of bones and toys can escalate to worse very quickly. My advice on that would be to limit the amount of time (ideally when no children are going to try to take it) and then trade a treat for the bone/toy. We have a rule toys=outside, bones=inside but only on beds.(dog beds) If you have the space, a chuck it and a ball can really help tire your pup out. Also- nothing is free. Dog wants dinner? Sit and paw first.or something like that. .. down, belly, whatever payment you feel is right. Dog wants to play? Again, sit or down…. dog wants a treat? Same. Dog wants affection? Calm first then love. Again- look into a group session as they are more cost effective. Please be patient not just with your dog, but yourself as well. It is not easy, but nothing worth it ever is. Very best of luck to you! Hopefully some other Pawbly friends will have more advice. I hope you find some of this helpful. If there is anything else we can help with, please reach out again.????????
Thank you so much for the info. I had another dog in some group classes years ago, and I’ve implemented that into my training, but I will search outside of my town for some groups thats arebt so expensive. The trainers asking for $500 are group classes here and its $200 extra for private lessons on specific issues. ???? unfortunately the group i went to before is no longer there. I do ask her to sit for leash on and off, before getting a treat and before she goes out. I dont give her enough exercise I know, since I’m hurt I can’t walk her alot, especially when she’s yanking me. Ill buy a chain collar and try with that. Thank you so much for the tips. I will definitely give it a go. Currently I am working on keeping her out of her kennel except when she’s beung bad, or when she’s too wild, and maybe still sleep in it. Not sure yet.
If she’s pulling while on a prong, it’s likely not positioned correctly. It might also have a larger link size than she should have. Go with a smaller link and position it right behind the jaw. Make sure to have a backup slip lead on, just in case. Work on this in the yard before going on a walk.
I suspect she has far too much freedom and too few rules. You’ve gotta go back to square 1 with obedience. Utilize trades (not food) instead of just taking things from her. Crate her if she’s chewing something. Consider umbilical training to prevent bad behavior, and praise the heck out of good behavior. Since group classes are not a thing in most places right now, look into Fenzi Dog Sports Academy. It’s an online-only school, and they might have something that will work for you.
Beyond that, try looking here for trainers: https://www.canineprofessionals.com/find-a-professional