I’m going to leave the medical part of your question to our vets, but I do have an observation regarding what makes a reputable, ethical breeder.

Unless the person from whom you purchased your puppy titles (as in, they earn titles through showing, obedience trials, etc…not just AKC registration) and fully health tests per the Chihuahua Club of America, they aren’t what I would consider ethical or reputable. Here’s a lot more information: http://www.chihuahuaclubofamerica.org/health-committee-mission/

Read through the links on the right sidebar. And maybe look into an insurance policy to cover potential health issues. Petplan and Truepanion seem to be two of the best…avoid VPI like the plague, they’ll just take your money.

We took two separate stool samples in to the vet, then while my wife had the pup there a small worm was left on her shirt by the pup. Vet said it was a tapeworm so I’m assuming that’s what it is.

Plus had deurontinal more times than I can count.

Sudden changes in urination (location, frequency, etc.) could mean a UTI, ESPECIALLY in tomcats.  Please get him to the vet for a urinalysis.

What did your vet say when you took your dog to see him/her?  Haven’t been to a vet yet?  What are you waiting for?

Took to the vet. Gave her steroids

So, steroids.  Did the vet tell you this was the result of an allergy?  

If so, the first thing you must do is get all grains out of her diet, including treats.  No more sharing the odd cookie or corn chip with her.  Go to a good pet store (not the grocery store or a big box store) and ask to be shown to the grain-free dog foods.  Then start reading labels.  You want a dog food that lists real meat as the first 2, or even better, 3 ingredients.  Real meat is easy to recognize, it will say Elk, Bison, Turkey, Lamb, Pork, Salmon meal, Whitefish meal, etc.  Meal is the entire animal ground up and dried – a good thing.  Avoid chicken and beef – many dogs are reactive to those two proteins.  Do NOT buy any food that lists ‘by products’ as an ingredient, this is a sign that you will be paying premium price for a sub-standard food.

Read all treat packages – they sneak a lot of grains into treats.

To help with the itching right now – rinse your dog daily with a mix of vinegar and water (1/3 vinegar, 2/3 water – organic apple cider vinegar is best if you can afford it.  Use white vinegar if your dog is a very light color since apple cider can stain the coat.).  Flush the mix through her coat, working it down to her skin, then let her shake and dry – don’t rinse it out.  The vinegar helps calm the itch.  You can do this several times per day on the naked skin since it will dry fast – you don’t want her to go to bed damp though.

You can keep a bowl of this mix at the door (use fresh mix every day) and dip her feet when she comes in from outdoors – this helps keep down the amount of pollen and mold spores she tracks into the house.

Cover your furniture with sheets or towels where ever you allow her to nap – then toss those covers in the wash every week.  Same with her dog bed or crate liner.  If she sleeps in bed with you – cover the foot of the bed with a sheet or beach towel – and wash it weekly.  This keeps down the amount of pollen and mold spores on those surfaces too.  Vacuum each day with a HEPA filter in your vacuum.

If the vet suggested Benedryl use Zyrtec instead – it seems to work better for dogs.  The generic is fine, and use the same dose as the Benedryl – one pill in the morning and one at night.

If she has any hot spots (raw open wounds), dab on witch hazel with aloe vera (find in any pharmacy over the counter) and let it dry.

Consider feeding your dog a raw diet – google “BARF diet for dogs”, “raw diet for dogs”, “biologically appropriate diets for dogs” to learn more.  It is a little intimidating at first, but after the first 6 months you will see such changes in your dog that you will never go back to dry bits out of a bag.  And your dog will smell wonderful!

Keep in mind that a naked dog will feel warmer to us – we are used to having a layer of insulation (fur) between our skin and theirs.  Normally a dog’s temperature is 102.5 degrees F and we are only 98.6.

If your dog has a skin infection you will need to continue to work with a vet – don’t let your girl get worse! 

Dr. Magnifico often suggests using dirt in the litterbox.  I would also have at least one other box on hand…most cats really don’t enjoy pooping where they pee.

You need to remove the tick.  If you aren’t comfortable doing so, take your dog to the vet NOW to have it removed.

No – the human version of the herpes virus is not transmissible to dogs.  I would be more worried about obstruction, depending on the size of your dog.

If it just happened within the last few mins, pour some hydrogen peroxide down their throats which will make them vomit up some of the chocolate.

You don’t need to use strong chemicals to clean up after your dog – vinegar will do the job.  Any kind of vinegar – Wal Mart has Cleaning Vinegar which has a lower pH, and it is found in the grocery section with all the other vinegar.  You can mix the vinegar with water, 1/3 vinegar, 2/3 water.  This neutralizes the smell of urine, and kills bacteria/germs.  The vinegar smell disappears as it dries.  You can use the same mix to rinse her off when she has an accident – just stand her in the tub, hose her off with plain water, then using a squirt bottle, work the vinegar and water mix into her coat to deodorize her.

Are you taking her out to pee just before she goes into her crate at night?  Have you taken her to a vet to see if she has a bladder infection?  Many dogs don’t like to pee on decks or balconies and so they hold it as long as they can – which can lead to bladder infections.  In a 15 year old dog, even the stress of a new home can lead to complications in her health.

Have you considered dog diapers?  There are several brands out there for dogs that can not control their bladders – so you would walk her, then put her into her crate with a diaper on.  You just have to pay attention that she does not develop a diaper rash or sores.

This girl has spent her entire life loving you – and she deserves the best you can offer to her.  Take her for a check up, and work to keep her comfortable, and with you. 

And last of all – don’t send her to die in a shelter.  At her age she will not be adopted and in the days before they kill her, she will be sad, depressed, and wondering where her people are.  Don’t condemn her to worry and confusion by giving her away.  If you truly can’t keep this girl after all that she has done for you, the least you can do is take her to a vet and have her put down while she is in your loving arms. 

That’s why I’m asking for advice/ solutions obviously I don’t want to give her away but given my condition and just everything going on with her I’m not even giving her the treatment she should be getting… And as far as I’m concerned this is not a site where you go and bash people for their situations and or judge given you don’t know me lol.

Look at some youtube videos about introducing harness or muzzles to your dog – use the same principles for the diapers. Zak George has a good one to watch. Let her sniff and treat. Then touch it to her and treat, lay it on her back and then treat. Treat then remove it. Treat then remove it, repeat, repeat, repeat. Work slowly until it is finally on place. Take it off and treat. Put it on- take it off and treat. Put it on, lure her to take a few steps , take it off and treat. Repeat. Good luck.

I have found that as a dog ages they just can’t hold it long enough any more. Even older dogs usually take to paper training. Maybe you could try that. My Rheana is 17 and now lives in the corner of the couch. When she wants down she scratches my leg or the corner of the couch. She can no longer make the trek through the house to go out the doggy door. At 15 I was able to paper train her and she now goes on a piece newspaper under the coffee table only a foot away.