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Pawbly | 9 years ago
Breed, German Shepherd
age 13

Breed, German shepherd
age 13

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Pawbly | 10 years ago
In The Town I’m In Their Is No Dog Food At All, I Would Really…

In the town I’m in their is no dog food at all, I would really appreciate if you can help me in what to feed them as they are to skinny, you can feel the bones on their chest. Theirs 1 local vet that I don’t really trust he has given them all vaccines, asked him concerning the weight he didn’t have anything to recomend.
1 Male German shepperd 2.5 years
1 Female German shepperd 2 years
1 Mix bred toy dog 3 years.

Thank you,
Best regards.

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Pawbly | 10 years ago
3 Week Old German Shepherd Suddenly Starts Wobbling And Acting Dizzy. He Stares Off Vacantly…

3 week old german shepherd suddenly starts wobbling and acting dizzy. He stares off vacantly. Started all of a sudden last night. No vomiting, but no eating either. Took it to vet. They saw no problem in the test. What could it be?

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  1. Raymond Clark

    Has your dog recently received Ivermectin or Trifexis?  Both can lead to permanent neurological damage I’m told.  Also some dry dogfood and dog treats are being recalled for fungus contamination.  One dog treat I gave my 3 dogs caused them to have the same symptoms and then they had seizures.  Luckily I figured out what it was and they all recovered.

  2. La-Tonia TD

    Maybe it has water in the ears, which can cause the equilibrium to be off.

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Pawbly | 10 years ago
My Puppy Is 12 Weeks. He Sleeps In A Pen At Night But Destroys His…

My puppy is 12 weeks. He sleeps in a pen at night but destroys his pee pads. His pee has stuck to the laminate floors and it smells so bad. What are some ideas with potty training and pee pads? He’s a 12 week German shepherd.

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  1. Samantha Sadler

    When we crate our puppy we actually don’t put pee pads in there — take him out at night and in the morning and do it consistently and it teaches them when to go to the bathroom

    We were told not to put pee pads in the crate as they should not be encouraged to go to the bathroom in their den. It takes a little while to get used to but we found getting rid of pee pads altogether was the best thing ever. We had our months of accidents but now our guy never goes to the bathroom inside.

    I found pee pads increased his incontinence

    Give him some space and toys and stuff and reinforce him for going in the den and just making sure he doesn’t have water before bed and is taken outside

    Also make sure his kennel doesn’t smell like urine or feces — he may not realize he isn’t suppose to go to the bathroom in there and he may be playing or destroying the pee pads because he is teething — there are awesome rubber toys you can get and we just popped out the squeek mechanism in them so ours could chew on them all night and also make sure he gets a long walk and lots of exercise before he goes in so he isn’t full of energy!!

    if he’s urinating constantly could be a UTI  so many get checked for that!

  2. Anonymous

    i pretty much agree with everything Piper has said, but I’d like to add a few things.

    when you’re home, take him out every half hour.  set him up for success, and don’t let him urinate or defacate anywhere in the house.  this sets a rule – it tells him outside is where he’s to do his business.  every time he DOES use the yard, throw a party.  make it rain treats.  make him think he just did the best thing ever.  throw out the pee pads, all they do is teach him it’s okay to pee in the house, plus they act as a possible obstruction if he ever decides to eat the plastic.

    i want to reinforce: make sure he’s EMPTY before you come inside for the night. this is really crucial to his training and the comfort of your sense of smell. 😉  and for now it may be best to get up in the middle of the night to take him out, just until he gets the hang of sleeping through the night.  we had to do that with our previous puppy until his death – he couldn’t hold it due to a birth defect, and it made everyone happier if no one had to clean up a lake of urine every morning.  

    do you crate him?  this might be more effective than pee pads in a pen – get a crate appropriate for his adult size, but make sure it has a divider, and set the divider so he has just enough room to turn around and lie down.  make sure it doesn’t start out smelling like urine, too. 

    to clean up your house and any of his stuff, use an enzyme cleaner.  Nature’s Miracle can help – we found some success with it – and it’s available at Petsmart/Petco.

    if he’s eliminating during the day, can someone come home around lunchtime?  if you can’t come home, can you hire a dog walker to let him out, or maybe a trusted neighbor?  that really would help a great deal.

  3. PK Dennis

    Yep, you are training your sweet puppy to pee and poop in your house when you use pee pads.  Follow the directions below to house train your pup, and sleep in sweats or something like that so you can pop up in the middle of the night and take that puppy outside if he starts indicating he needs to pee (he should be sleeping in a crate that is small enough that he does not want to pee in it).  I sleep in sweats with slip on shoes beside the door for all my dogs until they are 6 months old.  

    I have a 11 year old Scottie that was taught to pee on pads in the bathroom when he was a puppy, (before I got him at 6 months old) and to this day when it is cold or rainy at night he will go into the bathroom and use the bath mat instead of going out the doggie door which is 4 feet away.  If you teach them to use a pee pad you will struggle with the results the rest of his life.

    Fight the good fight!

  4. PK Dennis

    Basics of potty training: 1. you need a crate – you can get a large crate that will hold his adult size but has a divider so you can make it small for him now. He should only be able to sit up and lay out flat in his crate, no more room than that. Or get a small crate now, and a larger crate as he grows (keep the small crate for the next puppy, or sell it on Craigs List).
    2. When you are not watching him he is in the crate.
    3. When he comes out of the crate he goes outside — does not pass go, does not pick up a ball…right outside until he pees and maybe poops (depending on time of day). When he does his business it make it rain treats, jump or joy, and laugh! Then play with him outside for a few mins so he connects being outdoors and peeing outdoors with fun and games.
    4. He is allowed back into the house and the freedom to explore as long as you can watch him to make sure he doesn’t have an accident. You might want to tie him to you (leash) while you move through the house, just so you know what he is doing and he can’t disappear and have an accident while you are cooking or such.
    Remember: He goes back outside after a meal (eating = bowel movement about 15 to 20 after a meal)
    He goes back outside after active playing (exercise and excitement = pee and/or a bowel movement).
    He goes outside right before getting into his crate for the night, and don’t give him water after he pees so he can make it through the night.
    During the times he is out of the crate, take him outside every hour or so and give him a command to pee (do your business, get busy, …)
    Sleep in something that you are not embarrassed to wear outside in the middle of the night so you can jump up and take him outside if he whines or stirs around in his crate in the middle of the night.

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Pawbly | 10 years ago
Hi I Have A 5 Mouth Old Puppy German Shepard Cross Husky Boy When There…

Hi I have a 5 mouth old puppy
German Shepard cross husky boy
When there is food left around he turns on us expessiy my 6 year old son he has biten my son hand before over food of course we feed our dog enough food and water

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  1. PK Dennis

    Amy, this is resource guarding and it is a strong instinct in some dogs — and has nothing to do with the amount of food or water the dog receives.  You MUST go find a trainer (or 2, 3, 4).  Yes, start with your vet’s recommendations, but don’t stop there.  Find a local dog club and ask them for recommendations for a trainer that uses “positive reinforcement” techniques only.  Any other kind of training will lead to more problems as the dog gets older.  And the first trainer you try may not be the right trainer for your family, and your dog — so that is why you need to keep on going until you find the trainer that will really work for you, your son, and your dog.

    Be sure your children are involved in the training of the dog.  Find a trainer that will also work with your son.  A 6 year old will not be responsible for training the dog, but he has to understand what not to do, and how to behave with the pup.

    In the mean time – LEAVE NOTHING IN THE DOG’S REACH THAT CAN BE GUARDED!  This means no food left around.  Your son can not walk around with a cookie, a juice box, etc.  No bags of chips left on coffee tables.  If he has nothing to hoard/guard, he won’t be biting.  In all likelihood if you don’t learn how to work with your puppy to reverse this behavior now he will start guarding other things — toys, his bed, his favorite place on the sofa, etc.  And be sure to have him neutered when he turns 6 months old – you will avoid another whole set of problems if you do this.

    It took me 18 months and 4 trainers to finally have a dog that wasn’t biting me or my husband when he disagreed about who should be on the bed at night.  But once we understood each other, I had 12 years with the best dog in the world.  Truly.  

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Sarah | 10 years ago
Our German Shepherd, Butch, Has Always Been A Bit Itchy At Certain Times Of The…

Our german shepherd, Butch, has always been a bit itchy at certain times of the year- more in the spring than others. This summer though, he has really started digging at his underside and now licking constantly at his hind leg (where a human knee would sort of be.) Someone suggested it might be a hotspot. What is the treatment for that, or should I just bite the bullet and bring him into the office? I feel so silly doing that as he was just there not too long ago.

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  1. Christina Chambreau

    A hot spot is not a particular skin ailment, but rather an area that has been licked/chewed to the point where it develops a bacterial infection that causes the “spot” to be oozing a honey colored, gooey discharge, often with an odor. 

    I am a holistic veterinarian, so I can offer a number of possible solutions for you and also some coaching for general itching problems. 

    first, since he is worse this summer, I wonder if you have recently had  your old
    “analog” electric meter (it has 4 little discs that spin and a man stops
    monthly to read it) changed for a “smart meter” or “digital meter” – looks like a
    computer. These can cause severe health problems or worsen current ones. Opt
    out of getting one.
      http://www.stopsmartmeters.org  If you already have one, pay the money to replace it, and the monthly fee we are charged for protecting our children, animals and ourselves from the high EMFs. http://marylandsmartmeterawareness.org/ has info to educate you and help you. 

    Also, this summer has been much wetter, and some animals are more susceptible to that. Also, when were vaccines last given? they can cause skin problems. 

    Finally, has he been showing any lameness, even mild? Sometimes they will chew on a part of the body that is in pain. 

    the conventional treatment for itching is anti-itch medication, topically or orally and maybe an antibiotic. 

    Holistically there are some treatments for this episode, then work to maximize health by
    following the keys on my website,
     http://www.MyHealthyAnimals.com, especially the 7 keys to health. Healthy dogs just do not
    get hot spots. 
     

    Now, clip the hair around the spot if it is discharging, then use brown lye old fashioned soap followed by the black or green tea bags. Once it is dry, use aloe from your own plant or a drinkable organic aloe vera from the store, or plantain from your yard (if no chemicals there) made into a slurry or calendula to heal. If it is very itchy, SSStingSSSTop ( from the health store) may help. 

    Merely improving the diet (raw meaty bones and pureed vegetables) may help end the itchiness, or you may need to seek professional care (Bel Air, Hereford, White Marsh are probably the closest holistic veterinarians to you – http://www.ahvma.org for details, or the links page on my site). Mitomax is
    a super probiotic
    that
    can improve nutrient absorption, so helps with all problems. I have had many
    animals’ itchiness clear up while using this, though sometimes they need to
    stay on it. Unlike other probiotics, it is very stable and is ok at the low
    stomach pH.

     Rescue Remedy is an easily available (at any health food store and many regular stores) combination flower essence to “rescue” when needed. 10 drops in a cup of water and sponge on the itchy knee, or add to any other topical treatments you choose. Put one
    drop in a separate water bowl for him (and any of the others) to drink – change daily.  If the RR seems to help, you can give some orally (few drops from the bowl) as frequently as any of the family thinks of it.  

    Even if the licking is because of a knee issue, the Rescue Remedy may help, as will the self healing methods listed below. Of course, if symptoms worsen – time to visit a veterinarian, preferably an integrative one if you are interested in that approach. 

    For the future, learn Reiki (www.AnimalReikiAlliance.com is a local Baltimore source of classes, and any holistic store or practice nearer to you as Reiki is the same for human and animals), acupressure, TTouch, healing Touch for Animals (HTA),
    massage, acupressure (several good books) and take one of my homeopathy classes – August is a 6 days class. 
     

    There is a great store that will be a healing resource for all your animals – Baron’s country Store (N of Bel Air, so should be close enough for you). It is near Dave’s natural market, another great resource. 

    Ask more questions here if I was not clear. 

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Sarah | 11 years ago
Our German Shepherd Is Very Achy-especially Early In The Day And On Damp Days-which Leads…

Our german shepherd is very achy-especially early in the day and on damp days-which leads us to think it is arthritis (he’s 7). Anything we can do to make him feel better?

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  1. AnneMarie Battis

    Hi Sarah!

    I agree with Krista!  Diagnosis from your vet first.  If you should find that it is arthritis/joint-related….
    If you are open to a natural way to help your furbaby, I
    have extensive experience in helping my 16 year old Golden Retriever (and many other pups) with arthritis pain and inflammation.  (I am
    not a vet).  This is not meant to sound self-serving because I now sell through my blog – because I am in love with the products – but I only use doTERRA essential
    oils to help him because they are certified pure therapeutic grade and they work!
    Wild Orange and Peppermint have been effective,
    but in my opinion, Frankincense is the most effective.  You can use 1-3 drops of oil along their spine
    between the base of the ears and the base of the tail (this will help in
    reducing pain communication to the brain).   Make sure you get it on their skin, not on top of the fur.  Then apply the oil to the affected hips/joints/area of pain.  Do this 2 or 3 times as day, as needed.  (Can be applied more often, if necessary, to
    deal with severe pain.  Less product but
    used more often if needed is best so their body can use every last drop).  
    Also found to be effective, especially on
    those really bad weather days, etc.  I
    diffuse Frankincense and Serenity blend oils (you can use lavender too).  This helps with all kinds of things for them
    (loss of interest or activity, stress, etc.) 
    If you do not have a diffuser, you can put 1 or 2 drops on the dog’s chest
    every 3 hours or so as needed.  I supplement
    his food (for reduction of inflammation/pain and help with body repair of
    tissue:  5-8 drops (depending on dog
    size) of IQ Omega AND DDR Prime – 2x/day mixed into wet food.  
    If you are not familiar with doTERRA, here is
    my website to peruse and if you choose, to order.  Please feel free to contact me directly at
    any time.  As I said, I am not a vet but
    I am very experienced using the essential oils on my furbaby, family and in the
    home and I teach free local classes.  http://www.mydoterra.com/WellnessFromKippersKitchen
     (ask me about wholesale pricing)  I also post all day on dogs every Wednesday – it’s “Woof Wednesday”  😉  so take a peek!
    Peace & Paws!
    AnneMarie
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Sarah | 11 years ago
Good Monring Pawbly Friends! Quick Question… My German Shepherd, Butch, Just Came In From…

Good monring Pawbly friends! Quick question… my german Shepherd, Butch, just came in from a nice romp around outside. He was fine for our walk earlier this morning, but when the dogs came in this time and we were wiping their feet, Butch wouldn’t let me do his right front paw. Upon further inspection, I noticed that it looks like he broke his dew-claw (I think that is the name of it- the little claw up his leg a bit) somehow outside. It isn’t broken off, but I can see that it is bent and cracked. Is this something that will most likely take care of itself? Obviously we would keep and eye on it in case it seems to get worse…

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  1. Krista Magnifico

    Hello Sarah,

    I see many dogs with broken toenails. These are painful because the sharp edges hurt the sensitive tissue under the nail. In all honesty when they present at my clinic I put a muzzle on and cut the nail so that it doesn’t bend and move back and forth. Sometimes the nail will bleed for a moment after, so we use Quik-stop to help this. And I always trim the other nails also.

    This happens most commonly on dewclaws because they get sharp and pointy if not kept trimmed, therefore making them more likely to catch and snag and break

    Check all of your other nails, keep them trimmed and get that painful nail off of your dog. He will feel better after.

    Hope this helps

    Sincerely
    Krista