I’d get him to the vet if i were you.
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my poor boy has a horrible dry hacking cough, although I haven’t taken his temp he feels quite warm, his been extremely tired all day has gotten up maybe three times today at most. He didn’t eat all his dinner either today which is unusual
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Anonymous
All of a sudden my 3 month jack Russell seemed off. He was laying down when we picked him up he was like a noodle. Very wobbly and he puked in the car. He has his first shots. What could possible be wrong with my pup? Please help
My 13-year-old Beagle has, over the course of the past five days, been in very poor health. It started on his birthday when he had an edible rawhide birthday card. He chewed on it all day and I don’t believe he ate dinner that night or if he did it, was a small amount. He did go to the bathroom normally, but the next morning, he wouldn’t eat again and from there the symptoms progressively worsened. He threw up some 24 hours after first eating the rawhide and it was mainly unchewed bits of his regular Science Diet dry food (about a handful). He did not go #2 at all that day and though I initially thought he might be constipated, I realized that’s not really a common thing with dogs so it must mean there’s something more going on. The third day, he refused food again and was still having trouble using the bathroom. Peeing fine, but not drinking enough water (maybe going to his bowl 2x that day). He was reluctant to move and didn’t want to climb the stairs. He normally likes to walk forever and ever as he is a Beagle, but he went to pee, slightly sniffed, and returned home. The fourth day, his breathing appeared quite short and in rapid bursts. He wasn’t wheezing or coughing or anything. It just seemed like he was constantly out of breath. Same symptoms as before. The fifth day, we took him to the vet as he was really beginning to worry us. Symptoms maintained and he was unwilling to walk down the stairs to go outside. The vet said it looked as if there was food or possibly a small bit of rawhide in his stomach. Considering his lack of eating, I assumed it was the latter. She ran a general blood test and said that his blood was thick coming out, but the results were perfectly normal and all of his organs seem to be in good standing. There were no specific tests, only the X-Ray of the abdomen as she was aware of his consuming the rawhide. The fourth and fifth days, his hind legs would cross over as he walked and his hind feet would drag almost like he’s dizzy and was trying to catch his balance, but only in his hind legs. Te vet said she didn’t feel anything obvious in his tummy and whilst performing an overview of his teeth, she found he had pus coming from his upper canine teeth and the gums were pale and swollen. She followed up with anti-diarrhoea meds and recommended anti-nausea meds, but didn’t say they were necessary. Nothing was given for his teeth or any possible stomach pain. He was then given 300mL of fluids before giving the go ahead to take home.
The vet visit was two full days ago, nearly three, and we’ve seen little improvement aside from him eating the wet Science Diet food the vet recommended we put his anti-diarrhoea meds in so he would take them. He is still having trouble getting food down and around 6 hours ago, we began force feeding Pedialyte as he threw up once tonight and we thought the electrolytes might help. I’m concerned he may have Renal Failure or IVDD. These seem to be the two which match up the most with his symptoms and breed type, but I wasn’t aware he may have one of them when I took him to the vet and therefore didn’t mention it. I’m concerned the vet may have also missed something considering she seemed to overlook his hind leg situation and his teeth situation. Please give me advice on what I should do and he obviously needs to go to the vet again, but I think I’ll take him to a different one with records from his visit a few days ago. I dropped all of the money I had on his visit then and can’t afford anything more than the exam fee, so any recommendations on what to tell the vet that way we can bypass anything that isn’t absolutely necessary would be amazing and if he does need surgery (I hope with everything in me he doesn’t as I don’t know if he would make it out of being sedated given his short breathing which is still going on), are there any pet surgery fund donation sites anyone could possibly recommend?? Please, I beg of you, any help at all would be great!!!
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Anonymous In your shoes, I would definitely get a second opinion. Has he passed any stool since this started?
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Bria Rachele I’ve called about fifteen different vets in and around my city, some of which said it could possibly be IVDD and two said maybe TCC. He has passed stool, yes. He hasn’t within the past 36 hours I would say, but he has done it 2-3 times since it all started. He hasn’t had food within the past 18 hours though and because he was refusing most everything we gave him before, he really can’t afford to involuntarily fast right now. He’s lost quite a bit of nutrients and we’re still doing Pedialyte hoping that will help to at least replace some of them. His hind legs seem to have worsened a bit as well. I saw it could also be a disc within his spine, but it seems none of the symptoms for any of these completely match his, so I feel there a million and one things it could be. I just realized I inadvertently failed to include in the post above that the vet said he seems to have a swollen colitis as well, but she attributed that to his lack of adequate food, dehydration, and vomiting. I’m not sure if that would tie in with everything else to point to a diagnosis, but any symptom shouldn’t be overlooked. Please do ask any more questions you may have if you feel you might have an idea as to what it could be and I’ll answer the second I can! Thank you!
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Anonymous You’ve done quite a bit. I’m tapped for ideas…hopefully Dr. Magnifico or Ferara will pop in with suggestions for you.
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Bria Rachele Thank you for your input though and yes, any suggestions from any of the other two doctors would be helpful as well.
My cat has lost weight and hes still eating and drinking. His third eyelid is visible and his urine in an orange color and foamy.
I have a year old blue heeler mix who is usually pretty good with walking, and she won’t pull, but she does walk at the very end of the leash so that it’s pulled tight, but she won’t be pulling exactly. I’ve tried everything I can find online- the stop and wait method, and the one where you turn and walk away, but she’s not exactly pulling. Any advice? Thanks.
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Anonymous Work on a formal heel and reward for that specific behavior. Keep the leash short so she understands what you’re asking. In conjunction with this, I would stop dead every time she goes to the end of the lead. By continuing the walk, you’re rewarding the undesired behavior.
I am a BIG fan of tab leads for this.
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Kathryn Jefferson I think a lot of dogs enjoy having some tension in the leash because it allows them to “zone out” on the walk and enjoy sniffing around without focusing 100% on their owner. If the owner turns or slows down it is easier for the dog to immediately feel the change in the tight leash than it is for them to suddenly hit the end of a really loose leash which probably hurts their neck. In a way this makes sense because it is impossible for anyone, dog or human, to pay attention 100% of the time (think about day dreaming in school).
There are a couple of tricks you can try. One is to train the dog to walk on 2 different pieces of equipment. For example, if they have a buckle collar on they must keep a loose leash at all times (could be used for busy sidewalks, vet visits, ect) and if they have a harness on it means you are on a more casual walk and you don’t mind them leaning on the leash as long as they aren’t yanking your arm out of socket. You could also use different commands (“heel”- walk at attention by my side and “walk on”- we are just walking for enjoyment so slight pulling or sniffing around is fine). One thing nice about using commands is that you can alternate during a walk. For example, you can practice “heel” every time you cross a street and then allow the dog walk casually during the rest of the walk. Your dog will give you better attention during the heel because they know it will be over soon, as opposed to you trying to demand perfect focus for the whole walk.
If you want the dog to always walk on a loose leash when wearing its buckle collar, make sure you only put that collar on when you are mentally ready to train and have sufficient time. Don’t use it during quick walks around the block before work when you are distracted/ in a hurry and not paying attention. Start out by having the dog practice sitting for you a few times indoors for a treat. Proceed outside and as soon as you feel tension on the leash stop and wait! Don’t move at all, it helps to have your hands holding the leash at your waist so you don’t accidentally give more slack when the dog pulls. Wait for your dog to sit automatically (without a command), then give a treat, and take one step forwards. A lot of dogs will explode to the end of the leash with excitement so be ready to stop and wait again. Allow the dog to pull, jump up, bark, paw you, ect without punishment. Just wait for the sit, give a treat when they sit, and walk forwards. See how many steps you can take on a slack leash. When the leash is tight, stop and wait for the sit again. Soon the dog will be really focused on you because they are ready to sit every time you stop. Once you begin walking along on a loose leash, you can periodically reward the dog with a piece of kibble for looking up at you. Remember, reward the dog when it does something you like.
Sophia Yin has some great training videos related to this on YouTube!
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Z2vZusiOzJg
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EUCl6ndLN7Q
https://drsophiayin.com/philosophy/
Ian Dunbar also has a variety of great videos on this subject.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=U92mG5-V26M
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dkapxaexrBA
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fLERx9XR8pU
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=InJD18Zxudc
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Saa13XvCdlI
http://www.dogstardaily.com/book/export/html/2131
I also recommend Grisha Stewart’s book “Behavior Adjustment Training”.
Shadow has submissive urination. He was abused as a puppy we believe by men so hes a little more nervouse around my boyfriend. Recently he’s been yelping and nipping for no reason. My boyfriend went upstairs to grab some stuff and shadow was infront of the door and as he opened it shadow began yelping and snaped at him again while leaveing a trail of pee behind. Shadow is my world and i am his. Hes a damn good dog and very loyal. But if this continues he’ll have to go. Any help or advice would be much apriciated. Thank you.
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Anonymous Have you gotten him to a vet to rule out anything medical? Have you hired a veterinary behaviorist to help you deal with this?
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Alex Horn We don’t have a lot of money i can’t hire any body. I cant afford to do any of that. And i know none of it is medical related.
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Anonymous Honestly, Alex, if you’re unwilling to find a way to make this work, maybe finding him another home is the best thing for him.
He very well COULD have something medically wrong. How do you know he doesn’t?
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PK Dennis How in the world can you have a dog for 5 years and even consider getting rid of him because of a man? Will this boyfriend be around in 5 years? You can bet the dog will be if you don’t ruin his life by sending him back out into the world of rescue. You are correct, you are Shadow’s entire world – it would be wonderful if he was as important to you as some man. Dogs are not disposable.
“Yelping and nipping for no reason”. Girl, there is ALWAYS a reason for what a dog does. You just have taken the time, energy, effort, or spent the money to find out what that reason is. This dog has just been moved from the home he knows to a new situation. His world is up-side-down. He is probably in pain (the yelping and nipping indicate that), and trying to make sense of what is happening to him.He really does need to go to a vet for evaluation, he may have a pinched nerve in his neck or back – that is often the case with dogs that seem to yelp for ‘no reason’.Submissive peeing – control the flow with a belly band and sanitary pad if he is peeing a lot. The incident you describe makes wonder if the dog might not have a bladder infection or bladder stones that prevent him from controlling his bladder under stress. Again, only a vet can determine if this is the case.Snapping at the boyfriend. Are you sure the boyfriend does not abuse your dog when you aren’t around? If you are sure, then the boyfriend needs to spend more quality time with the dog. He should be the one feeding the dog (by hand, one piece of dog food at a time), and taking the dog for walks. He should also be training the dog tricks or basic obedience so that the dog learns that this man will not hurt him. The reality is that your boyfriend has to build the relationship with the dog so that the dog can trust him – NOTHING you can do will substitute for this!You made a commitment to this being when you adopted him 5 years ago – probably before you met this man. If you had a child would you get rid of the kid just because the guy in your life didn’t get along with him? No, you would tell the guy, love me, love my child – no different than this dog. Tell this guy that he has to either totally ignore and avoid your dog, or do the right thing and work on building a relationship so that three of you can live in harmony.I once had a dog the bit my husband (the husband was in my life first). It must have been very frustrating for my husband to get up in the middle of the night to pee, and have a dog growl at him when he tried to get back in the bed. Four trainers over 3 years did not really solve the problem – until the 4th trainer told me that I would not be able to fix the problem – it was up to my husband to modify his behavior so that the dog would respect and trust him. When it was put to my husband in those words he began working with my Murdoch and within 3 months their relationship was totally different and no more biting! We never, for a second, considered giving up that dog – we made a lifetime commitment to him when he came into our home. He made us both better dog parents. I eventually got rid of the husband, but the dog went with me to my new life!
She is an inside cat about 15 months old never been outside
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Anonymous Vet trip to make sure she doesn’t have a UTI or something else going on.
How many litterboxes does she have? Is she spayed? Is there any way she could have been ambushed leaving the box? Have you used any particularly smelly cleaning solutions near the litterbox? Do you scoop it regularly?
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Crystal Turnage We have a all the cleaning supplies in the kitchen and her litter box is cleaned everyday. I have an appointment to get her spayed her appointment time hasn’t arrived yet. To my knowledge she hasn’t been ambushed. Her litter box is right outside my kids room
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Anonymous Hmm…I’d wonder if one of them exited while she was in the box, and that startled her.
General rule of thumb is one box per cat plus one – so if you have a single cat household, try a second litterbox. Clean the kids’ room with an enzyme cleaner to discourage further unwanted behavior.
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Anonymous (Also she could be going into heat, which could cause a UTI. Seriously, vet time.)
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Crystal Turnage Thanks
6 yr old cat vomiting and urinating a lot but she still has her appetite
HI THERE, MY DOG HAS EPILEPSY. HE IS ON POTASSIUM BROMIDE AND PHENOBARBITAL. GERMAN SHEPHERD. SINCE STARTING MEDS HE HAS GAINED 45 POUNDS. HE HAS ATAXIA, WHICH IS GETTING PRETTY BAD. WE DECIDED TO SWITCH HIM TO A DIET DOG FOOD TO HELP HIM LOSE WEIGHT, SO THAT WE COULD ULTIMATELY LOWER HIS MEDICATION DOSAGE. OUR VET CONCURRED. SHE DID NOT MENTION THAT CHANGING HIS DIET WOULD INTERFERE WITH THE SALT LEVELS BECAUSE OF THE BROMIDE HE WAS TAKING. AS SOON AS WE SWITCHED HIS FOOD HE STARTED SEIZING. HE HAS HAD ABOUT 7 OVER THE LAST 2 DAYS (HE WAS SEIZURE FREE FOR ALMOST 3 MONTHS). WE LIKE THE NEW FOOD WE PICKED BECAUSE IT IS BETTER QUALITY (FROMM) AND DOES NOT HAVE ROSEMARY EXTRACT, WHICH HAS BEEN LINKED TO SEIZURES. BUT WE DON’T KNOW IF WE SHOULD STOP IT AND GO BACK TO HIS OLD FOOD, OR HOW TO TRANSITION BACK/FORWARD. HE WAS PREVIOUSLY ON NUTRO LARGE BREED ADULT FOOD. I CANNOT FIND THE CHLORINE CONTENT FOR NUTRO, BUT THE CHOLINE CHLORIDE CONTENT FOR FROMM IS 2887.63 IU/KG (71.47 IU/100 CAL). I DON’T TRUST MY VET ANYMORE TO ASK HER, AS THEY HAVE NOT TOLD US ANYTHING ABOUT BROMIDE AND SALT LEVELS. I HAVE HAD TO RESEARCH ALL OF THIS ON MY OWN, EVEN THOUGH I HAVE NO VETERINARY TRAINING. APPARENTLY, GOOGLE IS MORE KNOWLEDGEABLE THAN MY DOG’S VET. IF SOMEONE COULD ADVISE US ON NEXT STEPS WE WOULD GREATLY APPRECIATE IT. WE WANT A BETTER QUALITY OF LIFE FOR OUR DOG, ONE WHERE HE DOESN’T SLIDE HIS BACK LEGS DOWN THE STAIRS AND FALL DOWN BECAUSE HIS BACK LEGS ARE TOO WEAK. SO WE KNOW THAT A DIET AND LIFESTYLE CHANGE IS IMPORTANT. BUT WE NEED SOME ADVICE ON HOW TO MAKE THE CHANGES, AND HOW FAST/ HOW TO TRANSITION, BECAUSE EVERY TIME WE CHANGE HIS DIET IT APPEARS TO TRIGGER SEIZURES (WE SWITCHED HIM TO LIQUID BROMIDE BACK IN MARCH AND RIGHT AWAY HE GOT CLUSTERS AND ENDED UP IN EMERGE AND SEVERELY MEDICATED FOR A FEW DAYS). WE DON’T WANT TO GO THROUGH THAT AGAIN, SO WOULD PREFER TO FIX THIS ON OUR OWN. BASICALLY, I’M ASKING, SHOULD I GO OUT TOMORROW MORNING AND PICK UP HIS OLD DOG FOOD AND SWITCH HIM BACK COLD TURKEY? OR SHOULD WE STICK WITH THE NEW BETTER FOOD AND SEE IF HE GETS USED TO IT AND THE SEIZURES STOP? OR SHOULD I BUY HIS OLD FOOD AND MIX IT WITH THE NEW FOOD FOR A WHILE, AND WILL THIS EVEN HELP? IS THERE ANYTHING ELSE WE CAN DO? THANK YOU KINDLY FOR YOUR TIME. “
That looks painful! Please get him to the vet.