unfortunately, the photo didn’t work. i would keep an eye on her, regarding the limp. if it persists more than a day or two, take her to the vet, and in the mean time, keep her on reduced activity. no jumping on things, no running.
So lately I’ve been thinking about getting another dog. My current dog is a Chihuahua and possibly Rat terrier mix; he’s about 13 years old. Before I got him he used to have another chihuahua he always hung around with, but that was when he was around five. He only barks when there is someone making noise outside or that get too close to our fence, the same goes with barking dogs or ones that pass by our house. Other than that he is very friendly with strangers, especially when they come into our yard. He does however, have an issue if dogs come onto his territory, like most dogs do. He has never been to a dog park and has gone to a pet store a couple times, either for shopping or to be groomed. Our neighbors have a dog who barks at everyone and everything, even if I open the back door for a second. My dog occasionally fights with him through the fence, and by that maybe every few weeks. My dog doesn’t bite, growl, nip, scratch or anything at strangers when they come over, even if it’s our pest control. I’m not sure how he will react when we bring another puppy home? We’re either thinking of getting a border collie, lab, doberman pinscher or possibly an italian greyhound. Any tips on what to do when they first meet? Do you think he’ll be alright with another puppy? Any advice helps, thank you!!
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(Unrelated, But He Also Has Chronic Dry Skin…
My dog is elderly and has seasonal allergies
(Unrelated, but he also has chronic dry skin and hip dysplasia)
I came home after a few hours gone and found that both of the whites of his eyes were swollen and pink, with in the past 2 hours they have gotten worse, I have given him his usual meds plus benadryl for his eyes, what should I do? Is this an emergency? All vets offices are closed.
Came home from work tonight and my puppy started limping on her back leg. But she was still playing and running like it didn’t seem to bother her, so i thought it might just be a sprain. She has a small bump on the bottom of her foot ?
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Anonymous
I have two dogs, who are use to living in a home with a fenced in back yard. I just started a new job, which requires me to travel sometimes and I had to move into an apartment. I’m afraid of them not adjusting very well to living in an apartment where I just can’t let them outside to roam the backyard freely. Also, I had roommates who would let them out when I was gone to work.
As far as boarding for when I travel, I have decided to just bite the bullet and travel the 2 hours back home and let them stay at theVet office. They are use to the people there and I’ve let them stay there for a few hours sometimes during check ups. I trust them more than having to search for a new vet nearby the new city.
I’ve been away from them for 2 months now because this promotion and everything happened so fast. I know my roommates have not kept up with the routines that I do when caring for them. So I have that worry as well. My dachshundlab mix was difficult to train on leash and I still have a few problems with her pulling and slipping out of harnesses and collars (advice on that is more than welcomed). I’ve been lucky a few times with her coming back to me, after a few hours of trying.
I am horrified that this could all go wrong. They are my family and I do not want to lose them nor have to rehome them.
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Anonymous i wish you luck.
my suggestions are fairly basic: crate train. start working on leaving them in the crates longer and longer each day. work on mental stuff (training for new things) prior to leaving, so they’re tired, and leave them with a stuffed Kong.
i would also go back to square one with the mix you mentioned, and i would invest in a corrective collar and the training to learn how to use it properly. (corrective collars, in this case, would be Martingales and pinch collars – no full chokers.)
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PK Dennis In a dog’s world, it is more important to be with the person they love and trust to care for them than it is to have a back yard to roam. You need to get your dogs into your apartment with you and establish a daily routine for them. Up super early and take a long (1 hour) walk so they are ready to nap the day away.
If you can afford to leave your dogs with a vet for extended periods, you can afford doggie daycare, or a dog walker. Look for a day care close to where you work, or for a walker that will come to your apartment and take the dogs out in the afternoon. Your dogs should have 2 things each day they can chew, especially if they are crated all day. Things like a stuffed and frozen Kong, a treat puzzel/maze toy, or Nylabones. This helps keep them calm and happy.
Get back to basics with crate training and on-leash walking. Try a Martingale collar so that your dog can’t slip out of it.
These dogs are not your roommates’ responsibility. They are your responsibility – and if you no longer want to make the efforts it takes to have them live happily with you, then you should be finding them responsible new homes.
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Tracey W. I think you misunderstood me. I never said they were my roommates responsibility. I had set routines that I followed like a bible. But I do know that while I was absent, my roommates did not follow the routines, which I have to get the dogs use to doing again. I left them in their care so that I can find a home for the three of us to live and because of the circumstances of the position, get adjusted to my new work environment.
I never said I didn’t want to make the effort. Thats why I ask for advice on getting them adjusted to apartment living in the first place. If I didn’t want the responsibility, I would have never have rescued them. We are use to living in a house, which they were able to go out when they wanted inbetween walks. They have been with me for 3 years, I have taken very good care of them. They are what keep me going and give me purpose. I took the promotion at my job, so that I could continue taking care of them. And have them with me with no worries on how I’m going to afford to give them what they need.
With that being said, I tried hiring a dog walker, and let’s just said that did not end well. I am looking into daycare here, but the only place I trust is my vet office back home. They have taken really good care of us from the beginning. If I have to drive the two hours till I find people I trust with my babies, so be it.
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Tracey W. Thank you, I had crate trained them in the beginning. But they seemed to be more comfortable after our early morning walks, to just curl up together in my bed and stay in my room. I started putting up a baby gate in the door and they seem to be just fine with that. They will still go into the crates, but only when it’s time for bed. I will try that Martingales collar. I’ve just been taking them on walks one at a time because the lab, Sylvia, at first required me to pay careful attention to her. While the other, Shy, loved to take her time on walks. Sylvia got better, but she still every now and then would pull or slip out of her harness or collar when I wouldn’t go the way she wanted to go.
I think the routine I had back our old home with the walks 3 times a day and potty pads in areas in case of accidents will be our best bet. I think I’m mostly worried about Sylvia barking at every noise she doesn’t recognize and the stress this move will have on them with all the changes.
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Anonymous If you get back to a normal routine, the dogs will settle in easier. There WILL be an adjustment period, and I think, in your shoes, I’d send every neighbor immediately adjacent to your apartment a note letting them know what’s going on and apologizing in advance. I’d also consider making/giving apology gifts. Even if it’s a token thing, it can make people more amenable to tolerance.
Because this is a new home for them, you have an opportunity to set the rules upon their first day in the new space. Crates back up and used daily will give them a sense of comfort.
For the collar/harness slipping, that’s why I mentioned a corrective collar. If it’s fitted correctly, to sit directly behind the ears, it cannot be slipped. We use a pinch collar for my Doberman, and a friend swears by a martingale for her sighthound – both breeds have skinny heads with necks that are very similar in diameter. Trust me on this, they work. 😀 Besides, one should not walk the dog on the collar where the tags live for safety reasons.
Good luck, Tracey!
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PK Dennis I know you didn’t say that. However, this delay of 2 months in finding a way to get your dogs into a routine of living with you smacks of expecting someone else to be responsible for their well being. You know a 2 hour drive back and forth is getting old, wasting time you could be spending with your dogs in their new home. As for boarding dogs at a vet – you are exposing them to all sorts of diseases. Yes, I am sure the people at your vet do the best they can, but in all likelihood a vet’s office is not the idea place for dogs to be unless they have medical conditions that need the attention of a vet tech. It is just a different focus and skill set. A good doggie day care is a better environment for your dogs – they would be out of cages and interacting with dogs and humans most of the day at a day care. And if you spent time, energy and effort on an animal behaviorist, and working with your dogs that you now spend on traveling back and forth you would have the 2 most perfectly behaved apartment dwellers in the nation.
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Tracey W. I didn’t think it would be a good idea to have them in and out of hotels while my bosses figured out whether or not they wanted to give me the position permenantly. I thought keeping them in an environment they were use to and with people, my roommates, they felt safe with was the better idea. I spent the latter part of that time finding a home for the three of us to live. I did travel back and forth home to spend as much time as I could with them. But I did what I thought was right in not having them involved in the chaos that was going on with work at that time.
That’s why I asked for advice. Theres tips and secrets that other pet owners know and have experienced that are extremely helpful. For example, the Martingale collar, no one, not trainers nor vets have recommended that collar. Most of them have all mentioned Harnesses (which is what I had done in the beginning to get her to stop pulling when she was a puppy.) I was afraid with the new environment and getting back into the routines I did with them, she would start slipping again. Yes I have a new job but that does not mean I could before or can now afford an animal behaviorist. I know we have to get back into the routines. And I know this is going to be work, I just thought I would ask for some advice on how to make the transition from house to apartment easier on them. Because I know the change can and is stressful.
But nevermind, I know what I have to do now. They have been with me for two days and they seem to be adjusting better than I thought. Thank you for your advice.
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Tracey W. The gifts are a idea! Yeah I’ve spoken to the neighbors above and across from me apologizing. Though they all looked at me weird at first, they were pretty nice about it. They have been back with me for 2 days now and they seem to be adjusting better than I thought. especially since most of the furniture and things around them are from our house. So they are surrounded by scents they recognize and I think thats helping them. The only issue we are having is that one of my dogs is on high alert with every noise that happens outside. but when I say “Sylvy no barking” She stops immediately. Today while I was at work I set up a webcam in the room they were in, and they mostly slept all day and chewed bones. I was so proud, I bought them new squeaky toys and let them chase me at the dog park.
Thank you! You have been so nice and helpful.
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Tracey W. The gifts are a great idea! Yeah I’ve spoken to the neighbors above and across from me apologizing. Though they all looked at me weird at first, they were pretty nice about it. They have been back with me for 2 days now and they seem to be adjusting better than I thought. especially since most of the furniture and things around them are from our house. So they are surrounded by scents they recognize and I think thats helping them. The only issue we are having is that one of my dogs is on high alert with every noise that happens outside. but when I say “Sylvy no barking” She stops immediately. Today while I was at work I set up a webcam in the room they were in, and they mostly slept all day and chewed bones. I was so proud, I bought them new squeaky toys and let them chase me at the dog park. Thank you! You have been so nice and helpful.
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Anonymous i’m glad ti seems to be working out. i’m sure they’re much happier with you!
I think my puppy has parvo and nobody will help her bc i sont have the money right now what can i do for her at home to keep her alive i got her two weeks ago and she was fine until yesterday she started throwing up and pooping a red color
1. While We Play, She Is Moving…
My ~1 year old cat is having two problems:
1. While we play, she is moving her head in a weird way when (I think) she needs to focus on the “prey” with her ears.
This can be seen below in this short clip:
https://youtu.be/69bADiXzqKU?t=9
2. She sometimes plainly shakes head, during play time or walking. This behavior is clearly seen on the clip below:
https://youtu.be/p3CKfJFZlV8?t=5
Does this look like an inner ear infection (since I can’t observe any ear mites/parasites/fleas on the outside of the ears)? Is it possible to treat at home or she needs to see a vet?
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Anonymous first: THANK YOU for linking to videos in your post. i really appreciate that, and it makes it a LOT easier to diagnose.
for 1 – i agree with you. i think she’s focusing on the “prey” with her odd head movement. i’ve seen this before in a healthy cat.
for 2 – maybe? i’d wait and see on it, honestly. if this is only during walks and play it may be behavior-related rather than health.
She’s sick from the cold weather we’ve been having and she gets cold easily so I assumed she’s just got a simple cold. She was shivering when I came home so I warmed her up. She’s been laying around since I’ve brought her to my room for a few hours now she doesn’t want to walk. She was walking fine when I first came home and she isn’t very old at all. She was fine just yesterday too. She’s alert she’s wagging she’s eating and drinking but she won’t get up. Is there a possibility her legs fell asleep? Or is there something serious wrong with her? Please help.
i tried twce today and the first time i understood cause it was drizzling and he doesn’t like to get wet anymore, but the second time it clears up kinda cloudy but good and he refused to go down the stoop steps and when he finally did he didn’t want to walk just stand there but when i went to sit down he decided to sit next to me and enjoy the weather and get some good love and petting, i know its probably just him wanting more time with me and he does like to enjoy weather sometimes stopping on walks for along time but today was odd he just refused and when i finally said lets go upstairs he rushed ( well as best as he could) to go back up, i know lots of people are home today and he loves to be home with everyone but i was worried and didn’t understand why he wouldn’t want to walk he’s decided on his usual indoor potty today
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Dawn Ferara, DVM I would take him to the vet to be sure everything else is okay. Likely he has pain secondary to arthritis which is the reason he has slowed down. Your vet can evaluate this and prescribe therapies that can help.
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Angelica Sori So until I can get him to a vet woukd it be wise to let him just lay in his cushioned bed to rest and ease some pain and not bother him ? I’m also giveinf him a hip and joint treat supplement I’m wondering if that helps any for now.
Hi,
My kitten is roughly 7 months old and I am training her to use the toilet – When cleaning out the litter, I noticed blood in her stool. She is an indoor kitten and from the rescue home. Can you please give me any advice?
Thanks Z
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Zena Eastburn Thank you for getting back to me. I have only had her around a month and she came from the RSPCA – she has been spayed and wormed and is up to date with all health needs / injections. I haven’t noticed any other issues in her litter tray. I did take her on an outing to my parents house and let her wander (I want to get her used to moving around in case I go away and need others to look after her) She does drink alot of water and urinates a lot – but this hasn’t changed since I got her. a bowlful every two days, she eats well – mainly dry food with a treat of wet food maybe once a week.
Everyday when I come home there is a small pile of garbage from the bathroom, left in my room in the exact same spot everyday. They are small and neat piles. If you go to the bathroom garbage it looks as though she was rummaging through to find the right pieces to bring. She only leaves them in my room, not any of my other family members and it’s always just right inside my doorway. What does this mean? Why is she doing this?
Has he ever been around a puppy? Are you willing to separate the dogs and rotate which is out, if things go south?
A warning about dobes, because I have one – they are NOT gentle with littles. You’ll have to work very hard on teaching a dobe puppy to be gentle with smaller animals – our girl is nearly three and still occasionally stomps my cat. They’re also tough puppies and are quite literally a full time job until they’re around 2 years of age…I’ll happy talk more about the breed if you want, but I don’t want to flood this particular answer with my babble. 🙂
This is how my rescue recommends you introduce a new dog to your home (and I do this with all fosters coming to live with my pack of 4 terriers, one of which is a Cairn/Chihuahua mix):
Before the new dog arrives pick a place in the home for him to live most of the time for 3 days. I use my guest bathroom some times, and other times I use my craft room – both have tile floors so it is easy to clean up any accidents that may occur with the new dog. Inside that room I place a dog crate appropriate in size for the new dog/puppy.
For the first 3 days after the new dog arrives, we play musical crates and/or rooms. I do not allow the dogs to see each other, they only smell each other on me, and under the door, etc. When my dogs are loose, the new dog is in the prepared room. When my dogs are crated or in their kennel the new dog is allowed to be out of the room, in the yard, or house with supervision. There is ALWAYS a closed door between my dogs and the new dog.
I spend time playing and training the new dog each day, and will crate my boys for an hour or so in the evening so I can just plop on the sofa with the new dog for cuddles. With a puppy you will need to be spending a lot of time with it as you will not be able to resist! Spend an equal amount of time with the older dog. One of the activities you want to focus on with the puppy is learning to walk on a leash – this is critical for the 4th day.
On the morning of the 4th day, put leashes on both dogs and immediately go out the door for a walk. Don’t give the dogs time to sniff or eyeball each other – the job is to walk together with you for at least 10 mins. If the puppy is older keep walking (5 mins. per month of age is a good rule of thumb – too long a walk puts too much stress on the bones and joints of a puppy).
Once we have finished the walk I take all the dogs into my fenced yard, drop the leashes and allow them to sniff, play, ignore each other as they see fit. Dragging the leashes allows you to step on a leash or pull one dog away from the other if things get hairy.
I have had 99% success with introducing dogs this way. The only exception was a foster that decided my smallest dog was prey – good thing I had that leash to grab! It saved my dog’s life.
We believe the reason it works is that it allows the dogs to smell each other without any misunderstandings of body language. In the wild a lone wolf will spend weeks haunting a new pack’s territory. They stay mostly out of sight, but scent mark in the territory. Then they start showing themselves to the pack from a distance. Finally they approach members of the pack. If the pack wants them they are welcomed (usually by the female members of the pack). So while our dogs are no longer wolves – smell is the first thing they pick up on. First scent, then sight, then hearing. So this 3 day of separation, but crossing each other’s scents helps the dogs get to know each other without confrontation.
With my dogs it works so well, they don’t even sniff each other’s butts once we are done the walk.
Since your dog is used to fighting through a fence I caution you to make sure that he and the new pup never see each other through a fence or crate during those 3 days. Keep that solid, shut, door between them.
Your 13 year old dog may never want to play with the puppy – but the puppy will want to play with him! Be sure your older dog has a place he can escape the puppy – such as a dog bed or crate, maybe in a different room. When your Chi is getting too much attention from the pup, tell the puppy to “leave it” and ask him/her to play with you. This will help the puppy learn to leave the older dog alone when he is in his quite place.
An Italian greyhound is a better size for your current dog, and they generally are ‘softer’ dogs. The other 3 breeds you mention will be a real challenge for you, and will overwhelm the Chi. It is a giant leap going from living with a Chi to living with these 3 other breeds. They all are high energy, need WAY more exercise, and a lot of training to become good canine citizens. The Border especially, will need a job. Borders are scary intelligent.
All that being said – give your dog a month with the new pup before you decide if it is going to work or not. Good luck!