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The availability of items has changed so much since I last had a puppy over 10 years ago. I never give any of my dogs rawhide, so I’m looking for safe alternatives that satisfy the need to chew, especially for a 10 week old pup. Nylabone, nylabone edibles, what else is appropriate? I’m looking for safe, and hopefully not extremely expensive. And what about giving things like carrots, quartered apples, pears, etc? Thank you~!
my 4 week old pup was diagnosed with puppy strangles, she drained the large lump below his ear, and gave us penicillian, but now the lump is TWICE the size, he keeps sneezing/coughing, having trouble breathing, weak. im scared he gonna die
Help me PLS! I have a litre of 8 pups that r 4weeks old today. The runt has all of. A sudden gotten a leg lump on right side of his neck below his ear, he is unresponsive, won’t take bottle or. Eye dropper and I think he is going to die!
Any time he moves his head he yelps loud and I feel HORRIBLE for poor lil guy! I got him wrapped up and holding him trying to get some baby formula into him but not having much luck! Could b a bee sting since I had them out in backyard for first time today but I was with them the hole time, for like a half hr, or maybe momma stepped on his neck accidentally!?!? I dunno but I feel helpless an he’s in pain, almost like party listed!!
he needs an emergency vet.
i took him to the vet and she said he had strangles, drained the large lump on his neck below his ear and gave us medicine, but now the lump is TWICE the size, he is having trouble breathing, keeps sneezing, coughing, weak, im so scared he cant breath and he is gonnadie, he’s only 4 weeks old. of course its sunday nite and there is no vet open…..
Our 12 week pup recently got a crate. She’s been doing great for toilet training but urinated in it today. It wasn’t much but the crate door was open and she was playing with her toys and chose to use the crate. Any advice?
assuming she’s clear of a UTI, at this point in time, you need to make sure she goes out every half hour.
yes, half hour. without fail. until she starts holding her urine for an hour, then you can back it up to every hour.
She’s urinating as usual but she is going to the vet’s in a few hours so I can ask about a UTI.
Could it be excitement from play time?
She’s urinating as usual but she is going to the vet’s in a few hours so I can ask about a UTI.
Could it be excitement from play time?
it’s very possible she’s overly excited, but i think it’s always best to rule out a UTI in cases of incontinence in bitch puppies. they seem to be prone to them when young. in fact, the only time mine urinated in her crate, she had a UTI.
good luck. 🙂
Thanks Laura, I will make sure she get’s checked 🙂
This puppy is the last of a large litter, he was one of the only ones who would keep a clean crate/puppy pen. When the ground froze he discovered the practice of eating poo when he was outside in our fenced in yard. He was neutered a week and a half ago and we thought it would be an opportune time to remedy the poo eating issue since we had to leash walk him. He now refuses to poo outside, we do take him out every 1-2 hours and give a high value treat for pottying outside. He will go in his crate immediately after coming in and will immediately eat it. It almost seems that since I won’t allow him to eat what is in the yard he is just going to make his own snack. I will add that he is a very quick learner, he learned sit and down in an evening. He is very driven by treats and praise. He will urinate outside and looks to me for a treat and praise as he is going. He does not like to be in a messy crate, we know almost the moment it is soiled as he barks/whines and we clean it up. He will only poo in his crate, I do tether housetraining pups to me to eliminate the possibility of accidents (I try to set them up for success) and he has not accidents in the house. He will poo in his crate once I have exited the room where his crate is. I of course can smell the moment he goes, I run in the room and catch him eating it. I have gone as far as letting him out to potty in a pen thinking maybe he does not want to potty with an audience, I watch from a nearby slider but have only “caught” him pooing outside twice in a week and a half, both times I was able to deliver praise and a high value treat as soon as he was done. Lastly his crate is appropriately sized for him, it is a wire folding style crate that is just tall enough for him, he has enough room to lay, stretch out and turn around. This is something I would like to rectify as I know it will be a potential problem in a forever home.
Your puppy is just being a ……puppy! Sometimes the art of pet parenting is like the TV show Survivor–Outwit, Outsmart, Outlast.
Be diligent in cleaning up after your puppy poo’s. Do not give him the chance to play with or eat poo. Try placing the puppy on a leash when you take him outside to relieve himself, and do not allow him to inspect his poo. Distract him from by calling him to you, and when he responds appropriately, reward him with a treat and verbal encouragement (go crazy and act like he is the BEST PUPPY ON THE PLANET!) and then take him inside before you go back to pick it up.
If he hates poo’ing on the leash this is where the “Outlast” portion of the program comes into play. You just have to wander around the yard with him until he does it.
Some have found that adding meat tenderizer or natural additives to the puppy’s food makes a big difference, since these additives cause the stool to have a particularly unappealing smell that will discourage him from eating it. If you cannot immediately clean up the stool, or if there are some old stool piles in your yard, you can spray it with hot pepper sauce or mouth wash. It is more effective to just clean up after the puppy.
A good resource for puppy training is The Complete Idiots Guide to Dog Training. You can check it out of your local library. Good luck!!
Walking helps the bowels move. How about taking him on a walk when he comes out of his crate, and after he eats his meals. The walking will get him eliminating and you will have him on a leash to control his movements while you pick up the poop. This may work faster/better than turning him out in the yard and waiting, or wandering around the yard while he decides if he is going to poop or not.
It may also be so exciting to be out and about that he forgets he wants to poop inside where he can snack.
Good luck!
Thank you for the suggestions. I actually had given more info in the details when I posted that I am doing all of these. This isn’t a typical housebreaking issue but more of a compulsion to eat stool. The issue of eliminating in his crate began AFTER I restricted him from eating poo outside. In the past year alone I have fostered 30 puppies, all were well on their way to being housetrained when they were adopted. As a board member of a local rescue and seasoned foster I provide support to adoptive families on the subject of house training. My approach to house training is to set a dog up for success eliminating the possibility for accidents and rewarding appropriate elimination. I vary my method according to the dog as not all dogs respond to the same method. I have had great success with training dogs who have come from horrendous living conditions, spending months in their own waste.
There are products out there to make the poo taste bad and most of them (I believe) have the main ingredient of MSG, which is the same thing as meat tenderizer. Dr. Foster and Smith has a product called Dis-Taste, but I’m sure there are others. If a dose of MSG isn’t harmful, give it a shot!
Hello Jennifer. My Great Dane did this and then my Golden Retriever starting doing it. Learned behavior? I agree with Dr. Mag’s suggestions. I taught the leave it command and do not leave them unattended when it is ‘potty time.’ I tried to read a lot of remedies for this issue. What I found was mixed reviews on the food additives to deter the poop eating. I read about nutritional deficits and remedies. What I read and think was going on with mine was most dogs like to keep their play and living areas clean. Sometimes when a mother has a new litter, she will demonstrate this issue to keep the area clean for her pups. I too have a fenced in back yard which doubles as their play area when I cannot take them out in the unfenced area. I taught the leave it command and keep the area clean of feces. Somehow, imo, your dog has associated the crate pooping as safe but then cleans the area since it is his ‘safe spot.’ It took a few weeks to dissuade my dogs from doing this. Still, if I am not diligent about watching over them and keeping the area clean, the issue will persist. Your reaction whether positive or negative outside, may be influencing what the dog believes to be ok so he returns to his ‘safe’ area and only poops when he thinks you are not paying attention (because of your reactoin?) then gobbles the tasty morsel up for maybe cleaning? I found with my dogs when there is an unwanted behavior/issue the best reaction is no reaction. Remember, running to the crate to stop him may be interpreted as him doing something wrong so he tries to ‘destroy’ the evidence. It is learned somehow.
An anecdote. My very sensitive Great Dane when she was young had what I perceived to be separation anxiety when my wife and I would leave. We would come home and rugs would be chewed, pillows destroyed, etc. I would come in and immediately react, negatively. I posted on here and in short, the response was it was my fault. I was at first offended thinking I was a great doggy parent, but then I thought about it. My Dane associated our leaving with her getting negatively in trouble when we came home. This caused her great stress and her acting out was a reaction to fear and anticipation. I quickly changed my behavior. When I came home I would simply clean up what was destroyed and before leaving I would remove anything I could. I did not react. She would cower in her chair while I cleaned. I simply went about my business without noticing her. When I was done, once she came out of her chair, I acknowledged her and said hello. It was my responsibility to break the association, not the behavior. It took a little time, but we became successful. Now when we leave, we make it no big deal. When we come home, it is not a big deal. She isn’t afraid of us leaving and her ‘just’ getting in trouble when we come home. We no longer come home to destroyed items or a fearful dog. I personified her hiding in her chair with her knowing she did something wrong. Nope. I taught her that when we come home I would yell at her so she anticipated that with great stress and fear.
Maybe, without knowing it, we teach our dogs to do negative things. The hard part is realizing and accepting it then correcting OUR behavior.
Good Luck!!!
” The issue of eliminating in his crate began AFTER I restricted him from eating poo outside.” Maybe he learned it is not ok to poop outside?
Hello people of Pawbly, specifically friendly vets.
My dog is not doing well and I need some advice.
I just moved from a house with a doggie door that allowed for bathroom time, any time. Now I am working on a schedule and trying to get into a routine with my pup (2 y/o red heeler/terrier mix). For the most part it’s been fine. I have him in the kennel when I’m at work from 6-2 Monday through Friday and only live 5 minutes from work. I take him out right before I leave And right after. He sleeps with me at night.
Last Friday, I took him out before going to bed, waited forever but no number 2. I woke up the next morning and there was crap- a LOT of crap- more than I thought caninely possible, all over the floor of my room. Normal color, texture. I blamed myself for not waiting long enough and let it go.
So last night, same routine, didn’t crap. I ran him around for 20 minutes trying to jostle whatever loose. Nada. So I figured he could wait until morning. I was awakened at 3 am by horrible, hot steaming dog land mines all over My bedroom floor again. Same color and texture as normal.
So I out him in his crate For the rest of the night Because I think since he’s a den animal He won’t go crappin it up in there. I take him out before work And come home to a crime scene.
In his crate, he is huddled in the corner, and this wave of old sour milk or something hits me and there are puddles of yellow liquid that I’m assuming is crap since I didn’t smell bike and there are other, little piles of similarly colored solid poo elsewhere. He hadn’t eaten since the land mines the night before.
I take him outside and he pisses and squirts out a little more diarrhea and keep straining for another 2 minutes but nothing else comes out. There is a little blood now on his backside from straining so hard.
I googled it, and it said right now it’s acute, if it persists, to take him in. He seems in good spirits except was ashamed when I came in and as I was cleaning up after him. I was going to feed him but Google told me not to for the day.
I should also note: at my previous residence I lived with an elderly relative who used her early stage dementia to feed him whatever the Hell she wanted. “Oh I forgot you told me not to”- Fritos. Peanut butter sandwiches, leftover foods. And now he is only eating the expensive all natural food I give him.
So I don’t know what to do. Is it an adjustment period to the new place (only been here 2 weeks) is it the change of diet? Is it my bathroom schedule? Is it stress from being alone all day?
Any advice would be fantastic. Thanks guys and gals.
Anyone out there have experience with puppy strangles. Our purebred Doberman pup has developed it at 5mos. How long does it take on prednisone and antibiotics to see a marked improvement in the lymph glands in his neck. They are huge!
I read your blog on Beau. It’s just a frustrating illness, because results take awhile. Ozzie is only our Veterinarians 2nd case of puppy strangles in her 30+Yr career. Her first case was just 6 mos. ago on an imported pup. Last night marked 1 wk. on prednisone & antibiotics, we 2 or those days being the double dose increase. Marked improvement over night last night! So thankful. His chops and eye area, have gone way down. And the fever has finally broke! I am thankful for your site Krista.
It’s Woof Wednesday in Wellness From Kipper’s Kitchen! (I had to wrestle Cody pup for a bite! 😉 ) Today’s post is a healthy treat for your furbaby! http://wellnessfromkipperskitchen.wordpress.com/2014/03/19/cinnamon-bun-pup-bites
Hi Suzanne. My family gave our puppy many different toys when he was a puppy: squeaky ones, crinkly sounding toys, rope toys, etc. We always stayed in the same room when she played so we could make sure she was safe, didn’t ingest pieces and took the toy away when it came apart. We loved the Kong toys where you can hide a treat inside. It is good for your pet to work for and think about getting to the treat and to keep him busy. We didn’t use many treats but if we did we would only use those made in USA, dog food pieces for training treats, or other treats that are recommended by our vet (healthier quality treats), natural and with very few ingredients. Like people treats, many have low quality, unhealthy ingredients. I hope this helps and have fun with your puppy!!!
Hi Suzanne,
Great question, I like Diedra’s suggestions too. Here are a few more….
To answer your question, yes you can certainly give chunks of veggies or fruits as treats. You are wise to not do rawhides or rawhide chews as they are really easy to get stuck inside the mouth. Kong makes awesome toys and they last forever so although they may be an investment, they pay off in the long run.
You can also buy marrow bones (they look like smooth bones about 6+ inches long, sometimes they are hollow sometimes they are filled. They are really hard and basically impossible to break. If they are hollow you can stuff them with peanut butter or other treats. You can also freeze ice (empty cool whip containers work great) put some treats inside the water before you freeze it…hours of fun esp in the summer.
Enjoy your new pup!!
~kelly
Hello Suzanne. I recommend antlers. Dogs/puppies love them and they’re good for their teeth. They are sold at any pet shops. I have 2 dogs and they both love to chew on antlers for hours.
Another great option is to make your own frozen treats at home and fill KONGs with them. One recipe that I make for my dogs often is really easy. Cook oatmeal, add pureed pumpkin and small amount of peanut butter and mix. Fill kongs with them and freeze. Oatmeal and pumpkin is really good for dogs and the peanut butter adds some sweetness that dogs love.
Hope this helped!
What? Are these people Kong representatives? My dog will chews up kong toys in about 10 minutes unless it’s their thick rubber cone looking toy, she just sniffs at that.
More economical, and almost more fun are plastic water bottles. Want it to last longer, braid some rope around it, put a treat in it, throw it out when done. They don’t leave many plastic pieces everywhere, plastic bottles will just get flat.
As for treats, every dog is different. Meat always works, but it’s messy.