He is 1 years old turning 2 in march
She is a 5 month Pomeranian. We have taken her to the vet and was prescribed some tonics. But still there is no change. She also loves to eat paper and anything else she can get her paws on. She still hasn’t understood commands like SIT, STAY, etc. I am 15 and she is my first pet.
Comments
my dog snoopy has recently had a hacking cough which i believe is kennel cough. I looked up dogs with kennel cough and he is making that exact same noise. My parents can not afford a vet so, i cant take him. He is also now vomiting little portions of white stuff, and he bites his paws a lot, no particular one but both vigorously. Can someone please help im scared he might die he is kinda acting tired,and staying under my bed all day, he used to be really energetic jumping everywhere
Comments
-
Brianna Alarcon
I have 3 cats, 2 dogs and a small house with no mud room, basement, hallways, separating doors, or dog or cat proof room. Yes, I know it wasn’t very good planning on my part. I am married and my husband goes to work, while I stay home.
I am a novice dog owner and even more novice at keeping cats as well. My bull breed mix is 80-100 pounds and is almost 2, and my rat terrier chihuahua mix is 9 months. Two of the cats are almost 2, and the senior one is 12.
I need help because it is icy and snowing with snow on the ground, and my dogs can no longer stay outside and wait for me to get to them. They’re unhappy inside their crates, and my eventual goal is to have them roam around the house with no issues with peeing or pooping, no issues of running around everywhere, and no issues of them bothering the cats because my husband doesn’t like it.
I can successfully keep them reasonably calm in the living room while I’m there, and I can get a glass of water or something from the kitchen if I tell them to stay. But issues of them just loose without me looking at both of them is that they will get into things and chew or eat them (stuffed pillows or other stuffed things, garbage, etc), eat cat poop, pee, or jump on the mattresses, which my husband doesn’t like.
The winter is much worse than last year, and keeping track of 5 pets is just so much. If they dogs and cats would get along somehow, I think that would help a lot. I just don’t know what to do concerning the litterbox, because my bull breed mix is very adamant about eating stuff from there unless I change it constantly. So when I let him out of his crate, I do change it, but I can’t trust him to roam around while I’m busy with something, or away. The little dog has issues with escaping her crate and peeing, and bothering the cats.
Comments
-
Carissa Knight Time, they will learn to coexist with each other.
They may not be best friend but they will be able to be in the same room ect and tolerant each other. -
Chris Warnock We had 3 cats and then got a dog. Get a pet gate that also has a small door in the bigger gate. Approx $60 at pet smart. Use a strap or something to hold the small door open. Depending on the size of your dog if it can fit through the small door get a bungee cord and use it to make the small door smallerUse the gate to give the cats a totally separate space to “escape” from the dog. We did this and put the litter boxes in that room, and also used that room to feed them. It will take a while for the peace and harmony your hoping for. if your cat has claws I can’t help there ours do not, but I will tell you that your sweet little cat will probably make sounds that seem to be coming from the depths of hell towards the dog ours did. Our dog learned to back down from the cats so we didn’t worry about aggression towards the cats. Good luck and remember to pay equal attention to all of them to prevent jealousy.
For example, after coming in from a walk, their feet are wet and dirty. So I put them in their crates a bit to dry off. And after a little while, I take them to the bathroom and wipe them with moistened towels with baby wash and also dry towels, but that isn’t perfect because I have to walk them from the living room to the kitchen to the bathroom. And the cat litterbox is by the bathroom doorway, so they feet track the litter too.
I know that washing couch blankets, dog bedding, vaccuming and sweeping a lot and general home maintenance is good, but I’m looking for ideas to make it easier, and quicker, and would allow my dogs to be happier.
(I have 3 cats, 2 dogs and a small house with no mud room, basement, hallways, seperating doors, or dog or cat proof room. Yes, I know it wasn’t very good planning on my part. I am married and my husband goes to work, while I stay home.)
Comments
-
Annie Yang-Shaffer Keeping more litterboxes is a really great idea. I think of part of they kick a lot of litter out of the litterbox may be a territorial thing, since the young female cats don’t like the old male cat and vice versa. So since they’re essentially forced to use the same litterbox, maybe that causes problems? I’m not sure… But I don’t want to confuse my cats, since the I’ve been using the same spot ever since I moved in. (My husband set up that spot back when there was just 2 cats and 1 dog.)
Here’s the layout of my home for some context: The front door opens up into the living room, and to the right side of you when you walk in are the dogs’ crates. Bones has a wire crate and Coffee has a travel crate. There’s an armchair and 3 cushioned couch to the left, and on the wall parallel to the side where the dogs are is a window that the cats like to look through. Directly forward, a doorway leads into the dining room, and immediately there is a small dining table and chair set to the left of you. A little forward, and a doorway leads into a small kitchen. To the left hand side is the stove and cooking area, a window which allows sunlight onto the stove that the cats like, and the cat waterer, and to the right hand side is the garbage can, sink area, litterbox, and the bathroom. The bathroom does have a door, and it has a sink, a washer, dryer, and a medium sized shower, big enough to possibly bathe two of my small dog (she is 23 pounds) but not two of my big dog. Back to the dining room and past the dining table, there are some stairs that lead into a room that has the pets’ food closet, a sewing machine table and a dresser shaped record player that the cats like to be on, and a mattress. Directly past that is a room with a door that has a more expensive mattress, the computer area, and the clothes closet. The dogs aren’t allowed in this area because of pee accidents.
My point of mentioning all of this is that I don’t really have many other places to place 2 or more litterboxes. While I could possibly do so anyway, I would like to have my dogs roam around one day, and having a litterbox in almost every area of the room could possibly be way too enticing…
I’m in no way shutting you down or anything, a lot of people tend to think so.. Thanks again for your help! -
Annie Yang-Shaffer Keeping both moist and dry towels by the door does help! 🙂 It really saves a trip to the bathroom and prevents the dogs from tracking the cat litter if they don’t even go there in the first place.
-
Annie Yang-Shaffer Both of my dogs are short coated, but I agree that it would be a good tip for having a longer haired dog.
We adopted our puppy at 4 months (according to the SPCA). He’s had a tough start to life so far medically, but he’s getting stronger and growing and being as much as a puppy as he can be (aggressive puppy strangles, still on medications). He is about 5 and a half months now and has yet to bark (sometimes he makes what sounds like small soft barks when in a deep sleep and dreaming).
Does full blown barking start at any age? I’ve read that other dogs can “teach” a dog to bark but our puppy can’t go outside yet and has not been around other dogs outside of the SPCA and vet hospital stays. I’m just curious what your experiences are, and in no rush to have a barking machine.
Grizz is currently undergoing his first relapse of puppy strangles and is back to 10 mg of Pred a day in addition to 3 antibiotics. Although he did not have the common symptoms he was diagnosed with puppy strangles on Nov 31 and began aggressive steroid treatment two days later. During his initial onset of the strangles he did have swollen joints while in the hospital (although I’m not sure how many on which specifically were swollen). On the morning of Thursday 17, we woke up to find Grizz favoring his front left paw, no swelling at the time. Took him to the vet and they felt he was undergoing his first relapse (he also had a fever). Later that day he began to put pressure on the paw and continued to do so, now he is even running on it. The swelling began on Friday the 18 and has not gotten bigger or smaller than the initial onset. He does not seem to be in pain, no shivering, favoring, fever or reaction when I touch or try to bend the joint.
Any ideas what this could be or is it just related to the strangles and it needs more time for the Pred to reach this joint. He has an appointment on Monday if the swelling does not go down. We are already financially stretched out because of his week stay in the hospital (only four days after rescuing him from the SPCA) so I’m hoping and praying he won’t need an MRI, CAT scan, or X ray. if anyone has any idea what this could be, I would so appreciate it. I’m currently icing the joint for ten minutes every few hours. Poor guy has gone through so much in his short time here.
Grizz is currently undergoing his first relapse of puppy strangles and is back to 10 mg of Pred a day in addition to 3 antibiotics. Although he did not have the common symptoms he was diagnosed with puppy strangles on Nov 31 and began aggressive steroid treatment two days later. During his initial onset of the strangles he did have swollen joints while in the hospital (although I’m not sure how many on which specifically were swollen). On the morning of Thursday 17, we woke up to find Grizz favoring his front left paw, no swelling at the time. Took him to the vet and they felt he was undergoing his first relapse (he also had a fever). Later that day he began to put pressure on the paw and continued to do so, now he is even running on it. The swelling began on Friday the 18 and has not gotten bigger or smaller than the initial onset. He does not seem to be in pain, no shivering, favoring, fever or reaction when I touch or try to bend the joint.
Any ideas what this could be or is it just related to the strangles and it needs more time for the Pred to reach this joint. He has an appointment on Monday if the swelling does not go down. We are already financially stretched out because of his week stay in the hospital (only four days after rescuing him from the SPCA) so I’m hoping and praying he won’t need an MRI, CAT scan, or X ray. if you, or anyone, has any idea what this could be, I would so appreciate it. I’m currently icing the joint for ten minutes every few hours. Poor guy has gone through so much in his short time here.
Comments
-
Ashley Schaffer What else do you think it could be? Could the puppy strangles be a misdiagnoses from the start? He had a high fever, pimple looking blister on his sheath, mucous in his eyes, swollen face, lymph node, and joints and was was reacting to the steroids until day 6 of the initial taper dose (7.5 mg). If something was injured wouldn’t he be in pain?
-
Ashley Schaffer Thank you for your prompt response!
-
Ashley Schaffer Hi there. I just wanted to let you know that when we took him to the Vet a board verified orthro surgeon looked at him and felt that he may be having an angular deformity that may have been caused from the swelling from the initial on set of the strangles which affected the bone. He said it could get worse or better has he grows. But there’s nothing to worry about now since he’s not in pain and still growing.
So far so good on the second attempt to lower the prednisone.
Thank you for your help!
Just a couple hours ago I came home and my dog was normal, or so he seemed, a couple minutes later he went to hide under a chair in my room and wouldnt come out, I offered him a treat and he wouldnt take it, he always does. I then took him for a walk which he was excited for but not as excited as normal. The entire walk he would slow down and speed up and did not pee or poop once. Then when I brought him back he went back to hiding and stayed down there, when I was in the shower he peed in the kitchen and the other bathroom but a small amount both times. He layed under there for another two hours and when I saw him in the hallway he stopped and I thought he was fine because he was walking around normally then suddenly he stopped curled up his tail and peed as if it was unintentional and when he walked back to his hiding spot he was leaking the entire way back to just lay down.
Me and my husband rescued Grizz from the local SPCA on Friday, November 27, 2015. The next day, he began to have diarrhea which cleared up by early Sunday morning. As Sunday progressed he became extremely lethargic and would not eat. We took him to the local vet, a VCA, on Monday Nov 30 and he was diagnosed with a yeast infection in both ears and GI parasites (roundworms and hookworms). Was given Panacur to deworm and drops for his ears. The following day, Tuesday, his lethargy continued and worsened to the point in which he would not move his head. We took him to the hospital at the VCA and found out he had a 104.9 fever. During the time of examination, his face and lymph nodes instantly began to swell and there was purulent discharge from his mouth. He was admitted for IV fluids and antibiotics. After no improvements and an onset of swollen painful joins on Wednesday, the Vets suspected Grizz had juvenile lymphadenitis. On December 3, he started on steroids, dexamethasone, but he only slightly improved. On Friday, Dec 4, we decided to care for Grizz at home and was given Clavamox (1ml/2xday) Enrofloxacin (0.8ml/day), Metronidazole (0.3 ml/2xday), Predisone (10mg/day), and Bupreorphine (0.1 ml as needed 3x a day) to administer to him. By the next day his fever had broken and each day he was becoming stronger where he was able to stand and eventually walk and play. The swelling had just about fully gone down by Tuesday Dec 8. After an initial check up on Monday, Dec 7, we were told to begin to taper the Predisone by 2.5 mg weekly beginning Dec 11. He was responding well to the initial taper dose until yesterday, Thursday Dec 17. Upon waking up Thursday morning we noticed he did not want to put pressure on his front left paw and was shaking. We took him to the VCA at 10am and he remained in hospital to be monitored and was administered his antibiotics, and an additional 5 mg of Prednisone (had already received his 7.5mg dose at 8am) and IV fluids. During his stay his fever reached as high as 104 but began to decrease upon us taking him home at 6:30pm. Throughout last night his fever increased again to 103.9 (temp taken by me by his rear leg pit). His continues to favor his front left paw and his shaking has persisted. Through his entire experience his appetite as remained strong and continues to do so. The most recent treatment plan is to increase Predinisone again back to 10 mg/day for 7 days where another visit will take place on Dec 24.
Comments
-
Ashley Schaffer Why is that not good? That is what he started with before the initial taper and significantly improved. From my research it is 2mg of Pred per every 1 kg of weight. He currently weighs over 9 lbs which would put him at just above 8 mg of Pred and so 10 mg of Pred isn’t that far off, espeically since he is currently in his first relapse after the initial taper dose. What is your experience with Pred?.
-
Ashley Schaffer Update: grizz’s fever broke by Saturday and has remained normal. He stopped shivering by Saturday completely. He is putting pressure on his front paw and no longer favoring or lifting it, despite the swollen weist joint that became inflammed on Friday and has not decreased since. I cancelled his vet appointment due his signs of improvement and will reschedule in another week or so incase the wrist joint does not change or decrease in swelling.
-
Ashley Schaffer Note: it also looks like one back leg joint is also swollen. He did have swollen painful joints during his first hospital visit so I’m thinking this is just a flare up from the relapse? He doesn’t seem to be in pain at all
she’s the right age for teething, which is when puppies’ gums are sore and eating can be painful. this is also the age both of my puppies went through a stage where they didn’t want to eat anything, so i would use that as an opportunity for training. i would put the bowl down and leave it for 15 minutes, and if she doesn’t touch the bowl, pick it back up. i would use her kibble as training treats so she’s working for it – you should be working on basic obedience right now, anyway, so it’s an ideal opportunity for that.
once she has all her adult teeth in, she should go back to eating normally.
i would keep things she shouldn’t eat out of her reach.